Hi, I'm new to diyaudio and speaker DIY in general, so do excuse my newbie-ness.
I have 2 of the BG neo 10 drivers, and 1 of the Aurum Tweeter as follows:
Aurum Cantus AST2560 Aero Striction Tweeter
• Power handling: 60 watts RMS/90 watts max • Impedance: 4 ohms • Frequency range: 1,600-35,000 Hz • SPL: 95 dB 1W/1m • Recommended minimum crossover frequency: 1,900 Hz •
Bohlender Graebener Neo10 Planar Transducer
Power handling: 75 watts RMS/200 watts max *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 150-6,000 Hz *SPL: 92 dB 2.83V/1m
I want to build a single centre channel using those 3 drivers. I can set my amp to set an electronic crossover high pass setting for 200Hz for the centre channel.
My intention is to drive the Neo10 full range over 200Hz without a low pass. I want to use the natural roll off of the driver at around 8kHz.
For the tweeter, I want to high pass using a single capacitor at 8KHz.
I was thinking of wiring the 8 ohm Neo10 in parallel to get a 4ohm combined impedance. Should I also wire in parallel together with the single tweeter with the high pass cap?
I don't know what the overall speaker impedance is going to be like as the Neo10 are not passively filtered at all. I couldn't find any online guides that deal with this scenario.
Also what value to use for the high pass cap if I want a single cap in a first order crossover?
At this moment I'm experimenting with the bare drivers without any baffle considerations.
Would appreciate any help and advice. btw I know some might think it overkill for a centre channel, but it's a bit of a learning experience and if I like the results, the drivers and more may be used in the main stereo pair. Cheers!
I have 2 of the BG neo 10 drivers, and 1 of the Aurum Tweeter as follows:
Aurum Cantus AST2560 Aero Striction Tweeter
• Power handling: 60 watts RMS/90 watts max • Impedance: 4 ohms • Frequency range: 1,600-35,000 Hz • SPL: 95 dB 1W/1m • Recommended minimum crossover frequency: 1,900 Hz •
Bohlender Graebener Neo10 Planar Transducer
Power handling: 75 watts RMS/200 watts max *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 150-6,000 Hz *SPL: 92 dB 2.83V/1m
I want to build a single centre channel using those 3 drivers. I can set my amp to set an electronic crossover high pass setting for 200Hz for the centre channel.
My intention is to drive the Neo10 full range over 200Hz without a low pass. I want to use the natural roll off of the driver at around 8kHz.
For the tweeter, I want to high pass using a single capacitor at 8KHz.
I was thinking of wiring the 8 ohm Neo10 in parallel to get a 4ohm combined impedance. Should I also wire in parallel together with the single tweeter with the high pass cap?
I don't know what the overall speaker impedance is going to be like as the Neo10 are not passively filtered at all. I couldn't find any online guides that deal with this scenario.
Also what value to use for the high pass cap if I want a single cap in a first order crossover?
At this moment I'm experimenting with the bare drivers without any baffle considerations.
Would appreciate any help and advice. btw I know some might think it overkill for a centre channel, but it's a bit of a learning experience and if I like the results, the drivers and more may be used in the main stereo pair. Cheers!
Welcome to the forum!
It's hard to say without an impedance plot of the Neo10. Does it rise at the top like a normal driver? If it does, that would be good for your setup. If it doesn't then you'll have more or less a 2 ohm load where the tweeter comes in. You'd want about a 5uF cap for the tweeter.
It's hard to say without an impedance plot of the Neo10. Does it rise at the top like a normal driver? If it does, that would be good for your setup. If it doesn't then you'll have more or less a 2 ohm load where the tweeter comes in. You'd want about a 5uF cap for the tweeter.
To give a theoretical answer on your question, an impedance plot of the Neo10 ànd the tweeter will be necessary to predict the total impedance over the entire frequency response...
Since you already have the drivers, it might be a lot easier to just get a couple of cheap caps of different values, hook everything up and do impedance measurements.
If you can get an acceptable impedance plot out of one or more setups, the next step is to throw away the caps that don't give an acceptable plot, build the speaker, and measure the frequency response of the setups that do give an acceptable impedance plot.
This might actually work! There are a lot of car-audio component sets that work fine this way (4ohm woofer, 4ohm tweeter, only a crossovernetwork for the tweeter and still a total impedance that doesn't go below 3.5-ish ohm)...
If it doesn't work out, you can always throw a coil in the line of the mids to make it work...
Isabelle
Since you already have the drivers, it might be a lot easier to just get a couple of cheap caps of different values, hook everything up and do impedance measurements.
If you can get an acceptable impedance plot out of one or more setups, the next step is to throw away the caps that don't give an acceptable plot, build the speaker, and measure the frequency response of the setups that do give an acceptable impedance plot.
This might actually work! There are a lot of car-audio component sets that work fine this way (4ohm woofer, 4ohm tweeter, only a crossovernetwork for the tweeter and still a total impedance that doesn't go below 3.5-ish ohm)...
If it doesn't work out, you can always throw a coil in the line of the mids to make it work...
Isabelle
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