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Old 24th July 2011, 07:49 PM   #21
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Is that like B in this picture?

Click the image to open in full size.

It looks quite interesting. And it would probably be possible to go back to C if it doesn't work out right.

As for A, that is just ugly. Drive units should not stick out of the box. Maybe in the boot of a car, but certainly not suited for home use.
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Old 24th July 2011, 08:10 PM   #22
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A has the best isobarik coupling (but not really suitable if the woofer is expected to go very high), C is second (and if the cone is not flat, and the magnet small enuff, the front magnet can sit inside the back cone for better coupling. B offers some benefits as far as push-pull loading,

The DMS are as C.

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Old 24th July 2011, 08:17 PM   #23
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You have convinced me. I will go for B first. The design of the box would have to make provision for taking out the back panel to get to to the inner driver. Now that I think of it, it actually simplifies the construction.

The Sara (which has round drive units) has the outside woofer mounted in a plastic ring that fits inside the cabinet. Otherwise there would be no way to put the inside woofer in. Or to take it out when you have to replace it after your big-bucks high-end esoteric flat-earth-society amplifier blows an output stage transistor and puts out 40V on the speaker terminal (sigh, not funny, especially the second time).

I assume that the two drivers are wired out of phase for this configuration.

Last edited by ingenieus; 24th July 2011 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 25th July 2011, 12:41 AM   #24
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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They must be wired in opposite polarity in A and B. Maybe you have seen Wilson Benesch using A. http://www.wilson-benesch.com/downlo...hop_Manual.pdf
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Old 26th July 2011, 03:53 PM   #25
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Thanks for the heads-up. It seems that woofers sticking out of cabinet may be ugly but it works, so Wilson-Benesch went ahead anyway. At least the Bishop covers those magnets with a grille when in use.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by ingenieus; 26th July 2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 26th July 2011, 03:59 PM   #26
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Yes. They had protruding sides and a grill. 8 woofers for just 87dB and 6 Ohm rating...
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Old 27th July 2011, 06:56 AM   #27
jerryo is offline jerryo  Isle of Man
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Hi ingenieus,
if you look on the English ebay site you will find some B139 bass drivers for sale and the mid-range drivers and the original tweeters. If you want to replicate the original sound they are there ready and waiting for you.
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Old 27th July 2011, 09:00 PM   #28
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Thanks, but the idea is more to come up with a modern version and not so much a reincarnation of the old. If the first pair works out well I may want to produce more of them.

Would make up quite a surround system, hehehehe. Naah, who needs 5.1 when you can have brilliant 2.0? But I guess that is a whole thread all on its own...
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Old 28th July 2011, 07:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ingenieus View Post
Thanks, but the idea is more to come up with a modern version and not so much a reincarnation of the old.
Well what exactly about the old design, ie what characteristics or propertes of the old briks are you trying to emulate? Bit vague otherwise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ingenieus View Post
Would make up quite a surround system, hehehehe. Naah, who needs 5.1 when you can have brilliant 2.0? But I guess that is a whole thread all on its own...
Hardly. Stereo will never come close to the envelopment of well recorded multichannel in a decent replay system.
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Old 28th July 2011, 12:47 PM   #30
jerryo is offline jerryo  Isle of Man
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I'm with Brett on this; from what you are saying I do not think that the speaker you end up building will relate in any way to the Linn Isobariks. It will just be another speaker design.
I think that the original speaker could be improved upon in certain areas but I believe that you would still need to use the original drive units in the format that the Briks use.
I contemplated building some new cabinets with the bass drivers re-aligned vertically to reduce the cabinet width and using heavier gauge timber but keeping the top face drivers and all the general internal construction as is.
If I remember correctly there is a site called "Pink Fish Media" that has quite a lot about Brik modifications and such like.
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