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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Europe
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Greetings forum.
I am still at a theoretical phase of transformation, I hope you can help me to know if I'm going in a bad direction since it involves some investment. I have these stand-mount MTM loudspeakers composed of: - Horn loaded tweeter (aluminum) - Two 5" aluminum-ceramic woofers - 20L enclosure rear vented (rear port tuned at 40Hz) The current crossover is a 2.5 way one. My idea is to transform it to 2 way one and add 15" woofers in a separate enclosure. The current XO filters the woofers in cascade and uses impedance correction on both woofers. I am not happy with the result (midband integration, sound "glued" to each speaker, lacks scale), yet I feel its potential. My idea was to make the XO purer and simpler: by going 2-way, 1st order, and getting rid of the Zobels. The losses in bass would be resolved by the new 15" woofer in a separated enclosure, thus making an overall 3-way system. Check the current and the new XO I am considering. What do you think? |
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#2 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Between cities!
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You may run into breakup problems with those drivers and first order crossovers. Do you have the driver measurements?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Your making it purely and simply more wrong, not any better. Ist order electrical filters can work, but most of the time they don't. If you want bigger speakers I'd suggest moving on what you have and buying them (after audition). Do not build and hope it works. rgds, sreten. http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy (see FAQs) Zaph|Audio FRD Consortium tools guide RJB Audio Projects Speaker Design Works HTGuide Forum - A Guide to HTguide.com Completed Speaker Designs. DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen Humble Homemade Hifi Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design The Frugal-Horns Site -- High Performance, Low Cost DIY Horn Designs Linkwitz Lab - Loudspeaker Design Music and Design
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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The concept of first order electrical is appealing, but a first order network is not easy in practice. Drivers/enclosures picked at random for such a crossover are probably not likely to lend themselves to such simple treatment. There are a number of reasons why this could be the case.
That said though, and based on the limit of information supplied, your idea could work. Don't forget to highpass your mids. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Europe
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Thanks for the answers.
Regarding the 1st order issue, the midrange woofer on present setup (see diagram) is already 1st order with L = 0.2mH (~6KHz), so the idea was to initially try to run the tweeter at 1st order (~6KHz) and see how it goes, and only then go to 2nd order on the tweeter if 1st order 6KHz doesn't work. The most radical change is to go from 2.5 to 2 way on the top drivers, this way both 5" woofers will handle the midband and bass, while currently one of them handles midband and bass and the other just bass. By removing impedance compensation I expect to add another woofer (15"), without the need of crossing the top woofers, again simplifying crossovers. So, to be more accurate, this still is a 2.5 way. Before we had: - MTW 2.5 way (with M = W = 5" driver, both going to 0Hz) And now we shall have: - MTMW 2.5 way (2M and W going to 0Hz) Allen, the idea was to actually go for a 2.5 way (this is the accurate definition), and not 3 way. Another note - if I use a 15" woofer it must be side-firing (not an option), but I assume there is no problem as I shall cut it very low (7mH 8ohm or lower). Do I have 'green light' to proceed? |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
A couple of points, the tweeters will then need to be more loud. If you were to instead disconnect the second woofer so you only had one midwoofer and the tweeter, then the mid/treble would still be correct but the mid/bass would be deficient. If you run both mids up then you may face needing to cross the tweeter higher as well as find another 6dB of sensitivity for it. (all in theory of course). The other issue is how well the mids perform at their top end. Even good full range drivers have cone issues higher up. There seems no sense in pushing this unless they are well behaved. With regards to your choice of 15" crossover, it's hard to say whether it would work well. In theory, wouldn't you be trying to cross at the same "2.5 way" point? First order is an admirable goal but not if the system can't handle it. With a design like this I'd be more interested in a "correct" crossover. If it were worth it I'd take measurements on all drivers and design a fresh crossover. I might also use subs for the room. There seems no reason (from your comments) that these wouldn't have potential down to the middle bass. Last edited by AllenB; 18th July 2011 at 02:57 PM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Europe
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Allen, thanks for the tips.
Equalization will be less of a problem as I can play with the tweeter crossing point and crossing order if necessary. This can also handle the problems of having the tweeter working outside its ideal frequency range. Still, my first goal is to cross it higher and 1st order, with no attenuation. Your observation on the woofers is also pertinent. I expect to keep on 1st order but if I detect peaks/resonance on the 2-6K range, I may have to use 2nd order on the woofers. The main reason why I wanted to use both woofers (MtM) in the midband is because I feel the speaker currently has poor image. Maybe the problem is low dispersion from the tweeter because it's horn loaded. The horn places tweeter in the same axis as the woofers (that have a deep cone) but reduces dispersion against a dome without a horn. Still, by using both woofers on the midrange not only I increase the midrange radiating area; as I will have a closer to a concentric effect (pure MTM) and finally may eventually be able to cross the tweeter higher at 1st order reducing its low dispersion effect. I was considering crossing the 15" around 100-200Hz while the 5" driver working as a bass-woofer is currently crossed at 500Hz. The reason for adding the 15" is to get a more tuneful and spacial bass. In large orchestras and other bass impressive tracks, I feel the 5" won't cut the mustard (although reaching 40Hz at -3dB). It's not only the frequency response curve that counts, but also the type of sonic wave a 15" will imprint. I imagine (have not tried) that a side firing 15" 97dB woofer could provide the result I am looking for. Maybe the subwoofer is the best option but I thought subwoofers were more suitable for movies, and they also introduce more complexity since they have a specific amplifier (different sound from main amplifier as phase and gain problems) that must be integrated with the rest of the system. So, my hint here is that the purest solution would be to use a 15" 97dB 1st order crossed and linked to the same amplifier. The room is rather large and squared in shape. My philosophy is to aim at the most simple and pure solution possible, therefore only having separate high and low pass filters (no band pass) and 1st order slope, even if this is a MTMW design. Note that I am not an expert on this, all these thoughts may be wrong, that's why I welcome guidance from those who have experienced these type of solutions. |
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#8 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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#9 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Europe
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Resonances: zero. These are state of the art built. Ultra thick walls, multi internal brace. Placements: Got little improvements. Quote:
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I may go for a partial solution before adding the 15" box, that is to simply convert the MTW 2.5 way in 2 way MTM with minor adjustments: - woofers connected in parallel - Use a single inductor as filter = 1/2 of the value of the inductor of the M driver, since the impedance is now half. - merge the impedance correction circuits (or drop them). |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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What axis are you listening on and how are your speakers toed?
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