|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
|
I'm building David Ralph's Chameleons (SB Acoustics 2-Way Title Page) and he uses 1" MDF for the baffles, but only 3/4" for the rest of the enclosure. I have enough 3/4" MDF left to make the baffles, but will it make a performance difference than using 1"? I have to buy 1" eventually for my subwoofer, but I don't want to have a large piece of unused 3/4" MDF laying around if I can avoid it.
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
|
3/4 will be fine unless the chassis of the driver is very thick and routing so it's flush will make the rest too thin to secure the driver well. In that case a small partial sheet of 6mm from a hardware store could be laminated onto it to get the required thickness for only a few $ and minimal wastage.
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
|
WHy not glue 2 pieces of 3/4" together for a 1 1/2" baffle?
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: big city
|
Do a 1 1/2 inch its solid and you can never have too much front stability
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
...truth seeker...
diyAudio Member
|
You have options. You can add a brace to overcome any weakness you think the 3/4" mdf will have. I make mine out of hardwood. Thicker at the mid point, tapering slightly to each end
__________________
...call me Ed...Special Ed... EnABL kit http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/119852-enabl-kit.html DCB1 parts http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ml#post2361098 |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
|
Just went and bought 1" MDF since I'll be making a subwoofer sometime anyway. Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
|
Do 1.5 inch , good stability and makes it easy for baffle offset ...
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Zealand
|
I laminated 2 x 18mm sheets for a 36mm baffle. Um, 36mm = 1.5".
Nice and solid, but I routed roundovers behind the woofers and midrange. Then I used t-nuts to hold the drivers in. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| "Dipol 08" Baffle Dimension and List of Crossover Parts | LineArray | Full Range | 37 | 3rd March 2012 11:09 AM |
| "Box" design and bracing for open baffle woofer array | ryoshu | Multi-Way | 0 | 17th August 2008 06:07 PM |
| New Reference - SG-OB "Stargate Open Baffle" | Magnetar | Multi-Way | 67 | 17th July 2008 07:04 AM |
| Need help using "Edge" to design Baffle Step Correction Circuit please. | G | Multi-Way | 5 | 3rd July 2004 10:49 PM |
| Thickness of heatsink's "meat" | Stabist | Pass Labs | 2 | 28th October 2002 06:33 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.08838 seconds (76.10% PHP - 23.90% MySQL) with 10 queries |