Not here to debate the merits of speaker breaking in. I know some folks see no sense in it. The manufacturer of my speakers recommends it as a viable option, so I am going to try it.
Simply Noise has an interesting web page. It offers, white - pink - and brown noise.
SimplyNoise - The Best Free White Noise Generator on the Internet.
Also offered is an option for oscillating the noise with a choice of three different speeds.
The manufacturer recommends running in (breaking in) for about twenty hours for optimal sound. Would anyone here know if any particular noise would be a better choice? I am using brown noise because I believe it produces more woofer excursion over all. I also find it soothing to listen to. Would another noise be a better choice?
Thanks in advance..
White noise contains all frequencies at the same level.
By the time it makes a difference for your woofers you might run the danger of damaging the tweeters.
I would suggest pink noise where the treble rolls of gently. Closer to reality as well as far as noise goes.
Better still use a mono music signal, feed it to both but invert one speaker. Now place them facing each other as close as possible.
By the time it makes a difference for your woofers you might run the danger of damaging the tweeters.
I would suggest pink noise where the treble rolls of gently. Closer to reality as well as far as noise goes.
Better still use a mono music signal, feed it to both but invert one speaker. Now place them facing each other as close as possible.
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Actually, breaking in speakers is a fact, the materials used for spiders and surrounds will go through subtle changes with use. What most of us technical types don't give much credence to, are the claims that things like interconnects and speaker wire need to be broken in. So as far as I'm concerned, mechanical things may need breaking in, but non-mechanical things don't. As far as claims that using one type of signal over another is a better way to do it, well I think it will happen quicker with signals that mechanically exercise the drivers more, but just normal use will also do the job.
Mike
Mike
Hi.
Oscillating noise at three different speeds ? I don't think so.
Pink noise is the obvious break in signal, same energy per octave.
Brown noise, or 1/f noise possibly more useful for bass or subs.
rgds, sreten.
White noise is constant energy per Hz bandwidth, will fry tweeters.
Oscillating noise at three different speeds ? I don't think so.
Pink noise is the obvious break in signal, same energy per octave.
Brown noise, or 1/f noise possibly more useful for bass or subs.
rgds, sreten.
White noise is constant energy per Hz bandwidth, will fry tweeters.
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I thought that might cause the drivers to move in and out more, rather than sitting at a constant volume.
Thanks.
Very much more, thanks! Fried tweeter wings, anyone?
White noise contains all frequencies at the same level.
yes but not equal power or energy...one of the two, as someone else said.
I would suggest pink noise where the treble rolls of gently. Closer to reality as well as far as noise goes.
yes, equal power per octave/band IIRC and this is best for tests IMHO if ANY noise is needed at all, white noise is pretty useless, unless for solitary confinement and mental torture of a hostage is required....
Better still use a mono music signal, feed it to both but invert one speaker. Now place them facing each other as close as possible.
how about mixing a pink noise source and 20-50hz swept sine wave........
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Couldn't have put it better myself...
And can we add semiconductors/IC's to the non mechanical items too please
"brown" noise!
LOL!
it reminds me of a southpark episode
The Brown Noise (Season 3, Episode 17) - Video Clips - South Park Studios
darn , dear original poster, thank You, I had not been laughng so hard for years now
LOL!
it reminds me of a southpark episode
The Brown Noise (Season 3, Episode 17) - Video Clips - South Park Studios
darn , dear original poster, thank You, I had not been laughng so hard for years now
Actually that can damage some woofers! When you have reconed a woofer and there is a voice coil rub, working the suspension can often move things enough to get rid of the rub. Doing it wrong can make the rub worse! So care is required. And don't forget the spider.
Indeed. And even fitting bigger drivers in a box can be troublesome. I always feed some 20Hz through the driver whilst tightening up the fixings just to make sure the chassis doesn't distort and cause VC rub.
As for running in, it's one sitting on top of the other, out of phase, and 15Hz for subs, and the radio for mids.
As for running in, it's one sitting on top of the other, out of phase, and 15Hz for subs, and the radio for mids.
There is only one good way of doing this, if I may have the arrogance to put it that way.
As has been said before, break in of speakers is in mainly in order to bring the rigidity of the spider and surround down to a reasonable level. (the other is to verify a speaker that is going to be used has no mechanical issues.
This is best accomplished at the Fs of the driver, since there the natural tendency to resonate is used to achieve maximum excursion with minimal power.
This may generate two undesired side effects. Any decent size woofer will tend to start jumping up and down. The second is the noise it generates. Running the drivers back to back with the magnets clamped to each other will solve both problems.
With drivers mounted in an enclosure, just connect in anti phase and run a tone at approximately Fs. Almost no noise, a lot of excursion and very limited thermal loading will be the results.
As has been said before, break in of speakers is in mainly in order to bring the rigidity of the spider and surround down to a reasonable level. (the other is to verify a speaker that is going to be used has no mechanical issues.
This is best accomplished at the Fs of the driver, since there the natural tendency to resonate is used to achieve maximum excursion with minimal power.
This may generate two undesired side effects. Any decent size woofer will tend to start jumping up and down. The second is the noise it generates. Running the drivers back to back with the magnets clamped to each other will solve both problems.
With drivers mounted in an enclosure, just connect in anti phase and run a tone at approximately Fs. Almost no noise, a lot of excursion and very limited thermal loading will be the results.
A driver is a mass-spring coupled resonator, with a set frequency where it resonates most. This is Fs. For a bass driver, this should be well under 100 Hz. If mounted in an enclosure, there will be such a frequency for the whole system.
At this frequency, the impendance of the driver reaches its maximum.
By driving the driver at this frequency, you get maximum excursion at minimum power.
At this frequency, the impendance of the driver reaches its maximum.
By driving the driver at this frequency, you get maximum excursion at minimum power.
Thank you!
Question: One day we will all have 40 Oz. speakers that go from sub 50Hz to 20 K within +/- 2 dB. A pair of them is sitting on my desk right now.
Any pictures? Any info?
"brown" noise!
LOL!
it reminds me of a southpark episode
The Brown Noise (Season 3, Episode 17) - Video Clips - South Park Studios
darn , dear original poster, thank You, I had not been laughng so hard for years now
I laughed so hard I nearly dumped my pants--must be the brown noise.
Built a line array and slowly ramped up the volume over two days with actual music. The line is around 95 to 96 dB at one watt so the house was rockin'. My wife votes for brown noise.- Status
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