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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Hi,
i am running 802 nautilus with krell fpb600, with krell krc-hr preamp and accustic arts dac2 mk4 dac. now the sound it very good and i want to add diy subwoofer at around 80hz but do not want to alter the above chain . so i need help regarding how to add lets say a good capacitor in series with the bass drivers of nautilus 802 to restrict output above 80 hz. regards |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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The nautilus is tuned to 21hz already!
To answer the question, it appears that it is about 4 ohms, so to knock it off around 80hz you'd need about 500 mfd of series capacitance on it. How much are you looking to spend on capacitors? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
You want to add a diy sub and restrict them to 80Hz ? Are you serious ? No way IMHO would this ever improve anything, they don't need subs. But if you really want monstrous low bass levels, decrease the input coupling caps of the power amps for some bass roll off and run the extra subs in parallel, both amps driven from the preamp. Cannot see it sounding any better though, personally if bass is not up to scratch I'd build some bass boost into the amplification chain. rgds, sreten. Series large electrolytics for vented boxes are a very bad idea.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 27th June 2011 at 08:09 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm with Sreten, the Nautilus should already have solid response down to 21hz or so, according to it's tuning, and should be very easily able to do so driven with a Krell FPB 600. It's possible that having the Nautilus out in the room (out of the corners) causes a slight roll off. You might be able to leave them connected directly without caps and simply add subwoofers rolled off at whatever frequency the placement of the Nautilus is causing it to lose efficiency. You might have to experament, but you'll probably find that a couple of big subs playing from 20-ish up to about 40 hz or so might add just enough low end "ease" to be nice sounding.
I'd build a couple of good subs which you should be able to power with the same Krell without issue, slap a 16mh coil on them in series and give it a shot. Maybe I'm crazy! As far as output coupling caps, I'm not sure if I'd want to mess with a Krell! That's just me though. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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ok . lets rewind it. thnaks for the input though but 802 lacks the heart thumping bass below 40 and relieving the 802 below 80 would make mid bass clear.
Now the fpb is directly connected....NO signal coupling capaitor from input th output....and i dont want any active filter to distorld low level signal as well.....as far as just adding ablow 40 hz subwoofer would colour the bass from tow different drivers...imho |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, if you have the means to try it, there's nothing wrong with building a pair of subs and using a simple crossover to give it a try. I would probably go a little lower than 80, though. It's up to you, a passive crossover is easy enough to design for subwoofers.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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As you move your speaker, the bass will change. I would add a sub without crossing the 802. The trick will be finding the right location for the sub. Level, phase, and location.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
It appears to me that your choices here mean that you give up the chance to improve things dramatically in order to avoid something at the limits of audibility. Here's my suggestion. Put an active high pass on the mains at a point determined by where you stop getting "value" out of using the 802 bass. It probably will help smooth in-room response. Probably around 40 - 60 Hz. Then bring in the sub and again base the low pass point on where the response of the sub is useful. It can also smooth things out. I find that the end result of a good integration is far more significant than any imagined loss of fidelity with an active crossover. A digital active also lets you shape the bass response, while a sub or a number of them also can give the firepower behind it.
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AUDIO BLOG | Bass integration guide My work: www.redspade.com.au web design studio |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Toronto
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I'd add a vote for active crossover or modification to the amp for active filtering.
Its difficult to get a smooth passive crossover for a vented box. The double impedance hump will give you messy response at the rolloff frequency. This won't help the blend to your subwoofer. Sealed box highpass filters can be better and there is a class of 3rd order system that uses the series cap to flatten the response. Go active. |
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