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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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So I had a pair of the pictured pioneers laying around and was disappointed with the performance in the lower frequencies. I thought I could improve on it and make a good set for a SET tube amp. I chose the bose full range driver based on the TS parameters found at parts express. The problem I'm having however is that the sound is horribly shrill between 2-4khz. I have not installed a low pass filter since I'm awaiting the tweeters; however the crossover point for the high pass (lowest recommended being 1800hz) is going to leave a big gap in that range.
I opted to get genuine bose drivers (from a car) since they were way cheap and didn't have to wait (unlike P-E). Perhaps the characteristics of the bose are worse than the P-E replacements? Parts Express Parts Express Replacement Speaker Driver for Bose 901 4-1/2" 1 Ohm : Questions, Answers, How To, FAQs, Tips, Advice, Answers, Buying Guide |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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May need a shallow notch between 2 - 4kHz to make these sound right..
Do this with a parallel LRC network in series with the "full range driver." Edit: Bose makes a lot of different 4" drivers, not sure that you can safely assume that the car drivers are anything like the ones being sold by Parts Express. Variants I am aware of include ones with 1,2,4, and 8 ohm voice coils, with and without magnetic shunts, different cone material formulations, and different spiders.
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www.kta-hifi.net |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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this is a 1 ohm driver w/a cloth surround (unlike the foam surround of the 901's and PE's). Paper cone w/o doping (unlike the 151's)
I've heard of impedance mismatch affecting tone (although I am not sure how); my test amp is a ss rated to run 4-16 ohm loads. I figure since the drivers are relatively efficient and am only cracking the vol. 1/4 of the way, it wouldn't hurt anything. |
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I have 2 pair of those Pioneers. I didn't listen to them much stock, but EnABLed they sound fine. You are never going to get much bass out of a 3" driver.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
One was a car crossover (what looks like a 2nd order Linkwitz-Riley)...I think it was sized for 4 ohm loads; 2x10uF caps, a big ceramic resistor and two identical inductors of unknown value. The other one came from a home speaker, looks like a 2nd order xover....10&12uF caps, different sized inductors sharing a single ferrite core and big resistor like the other one. The 1st one had less bass than the 2nd one, but the 2nd one's bass was too boomy. I guess i'll salvage the car xovers' circuit boards to fit my application; but I'm still affraid of the tweeter's Fo being so close to the xover point. Any advice? I was initially hoping to just have a high pass filter (cap on tweeter) and that's it. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Devon, UK
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regardless of any other problems, how are you going to drive the driver, at 1 ohm, volts and amps are the same value!!! Surely, these drive units were meant to be used in multiples?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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yes, parallel array of 9 I think. I've gotta read up on impedance mismatch I reckon, but my luxman seems to be doing ok....should I stop before I burn something?
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
Car Audio - Parallel Notch Filter Circuit for Speaker Design Now i just need to take some frequency response measurements. Any recommendations for quick and dirty freeware? |
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#9 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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I'd definitely recommend holmimpulse!
Tony. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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