I often use silver solder, noting that it melts at a significantly higher temperature - however if you follow the guidelines suggested previously you should be fine.
You might consider the use of a hemostat clamp as a heat sink - put it at the base of the terminal to block the heat from going up the tab.
6 1/2" Hemostat Clamp w/ vinyl grip
6 1/2" Hemostat Clamp w/ vinyl grip
A solder station with temperature recovery should substitute for a massive iron. Clean your terminals first... (I'll often flow stubborn woofer terminals by scraping the tip down the hole where the machining marks exist on the terminal, but this leaves the hole filled and complicates the process for tweeters), so if you fail in a second or so, simply pull back and wait. Use lighter gauge cabling. I don't think silver solder is necessary for this task, if you want a good connection simply hook your tinned cable end and gently pull on it as the solder flows.
In Europe we suffer from this RoHS which means that 63/37 gets more and more difficult to get. Except for: aviation, medical and other such critical applications. Because this is just the best stuff to reliably solder with. Don't bother with silver content, it only makes things worse for your kind of application. Silver does not have any magical audio qualities. It is only a marginally better electrical conductor than copper in it's pure state, in which you can not apply it to any practical application, because pure it is almost as soft as butter without being in an alloy with another metal.
This has worked well for me for the last 25 years
Use paste rosin flux on the connector and wire
Use a hemostat for a heat sink on the bottom of the connector
Pre-tin the connectors and wire with regular solder that has rosin core flux inside. (not ROHS)
If the wire is larger than the hole in the connector, solder the wire on the connector flat, don't wrap it. The less solder between the two things connected is the strongest and lowest resistance.
I use a 25 watt Weller pencil iron and heat sinks, just got done soldering 48 tweeters with extender leads on the tweeter connectors. I then soldered in the harness and checked with a multi-meter... 6 parallel lines all within +/- 0.1 ohm--all good. The 25 watt iron is generally used for electronics soldering (chips, leads, tiny wire etc)
Here is a youtube video that shows you the proper techniques, the hows and whys etc.
YouTube - How and WHY to Solder Correctly
Good luck and I only use silver solder on silver wire (medical) or pipe.
Use paste rosin flux on the connector and wire
Use a hemostat for a heat sink on the bottom of the connector
Pre-tin the connectors and wire with regular solder that has rosin core flux inside. (not ROHS)
If the wire is larger than the hole in the connector, solder the wire on the connector flat, don't wrap it. The less solder between the two things connected is the strongest and lowest resistance.
I use a 25 watt Weller pencil iron and heat sinks, just got done soldering 48 tweeters with extender leads on the tweeter connectors. I then soldered in the harness and checked with a multi-meter... 6 parallel lines all within +/- 0.1 ohm--all good. The 25 watt iron is generally used for electronics soldering (chips, leads, tiny wire etc)
Here is a youtube video that shows you the proper techniques, the hows and whys etc.
YouTube - How and WHY to Solder Correctly
Good luck and I only use silver solder on silver wire (medical) or pipe.
I'm a pretty sloppy solderer so I use as many of these as I can fit at the tweeter coil end of the terminal:
Soldering Heatsink / Component Holder - Jaycar Electronics
AJ
Soldering Heatsink / Component Holder - Jaycar Electronics
AJ
Thanks. Already on my shopping list.
But? Should I?
Don't listen to a word I say - sometimes I turn the volume up loud and sit in the room modes.I clearly can't be trusted.
I'm a liar. Do you believe me?
I'm a liar. Do you believe me?
If your answer is 'yes?' You are wrong. That would mean you believe I am telling you the truth, which would then have to be a lie.
If it is 'no?' You are wrong. That would mean you think I am lying, and not a liar.
Einstein had his problems, too...
The clips are safer, but I've never used em, and I haven't melted a tweeter terminal mount in years.
Only use wire as thick as you have to, tin it, trim it so that it's only a few millimeters of tinned wire sticking out of the jacket, thread it in the hole, get the solder right up there in position and hit it quick as you can.
Granted, I've spoiled myself on WBT solder that melts as soon as it even sees me plug the soldering iron in.
Only use wire as thick as you have to, tin it, trim it so that it's only a few millimeters of tinned wire sticking out of the jacket, thread it in the hole, get the solder right up there in position and hit it quick as you can.
Granted, I've spoiled myself on WBT solder that melts as soon as it even sees me plug the soldering iron in.
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