I have the magazine in front of me, but no scanner. If no-one else can help, ask and I could read it later tonight or tomorrow and give you the gist of it.
EDIT: I didn't read this but it looks like something by Mark Wheeler, the author of the Speaker Builder article. It is not the article but it does use the same illustration.Cabinet walls and Loudspeaker Energy Preservation - [English]
EDIT: I didn't read this but it looks like something by Mark Wheeler, the author of the Speaker Builder article. It is not the article but it does use the same illustration.Cabinet walls and Loudspeaker Energy Preservation - [English]
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Lengthwise bracing on panels is very effective, as are plywood ribs ~3x thickness, dadoed and glued into the panels.
OK, um... tests were listening tests with a bunch of people, differences were mainly clarity and the ability to differentiate different parts of the music. Mostly the material used for the brace was more important than the design of the brace or the way it was fixed. Hardwood was best, density was important. Vertical was much better than horizontal or circumferential (shelf). Mid-panel side to side or front to back was not good enough to be noticeable. Glue was almost as important as material. Hard setting adhesives were recommended, not wood glue or hot melt.
This article seems more like a discussion rather than a proof. Not that I disbelieve it, just that there isn't much data when you dig deep.
This article seems more like a discussion rather than a proof. Not that I disbelieve it, just that there isn't much data when you dig deep.
I have tried vertical and horizontal, and vertical is way better. I have a friend who tried vertical ribs and that cabinet is quite stiff.
Two part epoxy - I doubt it's any better than wood glue. A good joint with wood glue is stronger than the wood. The reason they use epoxy in boat building is that it is waterproof.
Take a look at woodgears.ca - Matthias Wandel has a bunch of wood glue tests.
Regards,
Ron
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