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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Virginia
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That is in an interesting idea, does anyone have any more information about it?
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#32 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North Lanarkshire, UK
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Quote:
I'm sure you know that, but some people reading could possibly mistake your comments to suggest that somehow the basic 6dB shift was being reduced, reducing the need for baffle step correction, which isn't the case. With typical edge radii of front baffles I'd also suggest that foam is only effective above about 2Khz or so, and only at frequencies where the active driver has wide enough (180 degree) dispersion to illuminate the baffle in the first place. For a midrange driver you would probably get more reduction of baffle diffraction ripples (especially below 2Khz) by simply offsetting the driver a bit, and for a tweeter (which is where the foam would be most effective) you can more or less eliminate baffle diffraction by using a tweeter incorporating a waveguide - on many such designs little or no signal is radiated at right angles along the plane of the baffle so there is nothing to diffract from the cabinet edges at those frequencies. Whether there is any worthwhile effect depends entirely on the directivity of the drivers - small drivers with very wide dispersion may see a significant improvement, larger and/or directivity controlled drivers won't see any useful improvement in my experience. Certainly worth trying though.
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- Simon Last edited by DBMandrake; 11th July 2011 at 02:16 PM. |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nashville
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Thanks Allen! Perfect timing for me.
John |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hamilton, victoria
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Great work Allen.
I think a simple tutorial like that has been long overdue here, you have filled that void nicely, kudos to you! Mick.
__________________
Making stuff 'idiot proof', Just breeds more effective idiots.
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Buenos Aires - Capital Federal
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Very nice tutorial, congratulations Allen!
And thank you so much! Fede |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Many thanks, AllenB. Your information on the Tweeter helped a great deal with my homemade crossover, now it's more ballanced.
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#37 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Quote:
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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If we consider the resistor that is used for attenuating the tweeter (Rs) and the tweeter itself (if we call it Rtweeter for the moment), the total signal voltage (Vtotal) will be found across the series combination of Rs and Rtweeter. The voltage across Rtweeter (Vtweeter) can be found by
Code:
Rtweeter
Vtweeter = Vtotal x -------------
Rs + Rtweeter
Code:
Rtweeter
20 x log( ------------ )
Rs + Rtweeter
Last edited by AllenB; 15th November 2011 at 11:15 PM. |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Thanks for answering, but why are you taking the ratio of tweeter and total and expressed it as dB? I thought by reducing 1 dB in the context you are referring to the spl of the tweeter? or is it the ratio of voltage between the tweeter and total?
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Reducing the voltage (relative to the total) will bring the tweeter down and it can be expressed in dB. A halving of voltage will reduce the level by 6dB, which amounts to one quarter of the power. This is because the halving of voltage will also halve the current that flows from it.
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