There will not be much difference. I can't simulate with felt. You have to measure how much it will affect the frequency. You should be able to get some felt in a shop with car audio.
Beautiful work ........ 😱
I have had issues with hot glue in the past on xover parts , it looks like you are using such ..true ?
regards,
Yes it is true. I used hot glue for the crossovers but i did not have any problems. What problems did you have? Before i use this glue, i glued one capacitor and check the value and it did not change at all so then i use hot glue for all the parts.
yes i believe these are called odysseys as the nautilus are 4 ways this is a truly sick endavour in my opinion way beyond my capabilities and equipment i hope they turn out will and would really like to know if these things sound as good as they look
Very excellent build! However I wonder about the distance between the choke coils on your crossover network boards. The coils should be spaced as far apart as possible to avoid the field of one acting on the coils of the other. If they must be somewhat close together, one should be flat and the other one upright perpendicular to the flat one. To what extent this can affect the performance I don't know and haven't seen any measurements of.
the coils have enough distance between them. The dimension of the crossover board is 18 x 12 inch. Only two coils are close to each other but they are on different axis as you can see.
Member
Joined 2009
Congratulations, this is an awesome project!! 
I think you might be able to smooth out the diffraction pattern by hornloading the tweeter. It would look like the tweeter is in the hole of a doughnut. To be honest though I don't know how well this will work so maybe somebody can help you with this.
The most elegant way to deal with this issue is to offset the tweeter to one side. You can cut the tweeter faceplate on the bottom and mount it as close to the edge as possible.
sim1 shows the tweeter in the middle as you have it now and sim2 shows it offset to the bottom.
I think you might be able to smooth out the diffraction pattern by hornloading the tweeter. It would look like the tweeter is in the hole of a doughnut. To be honest though I don't know how well this will work so maybe somebody can help you with this.
The most elegant way to deal with this issue is to offset the tweeter to one side. You can cut the tweeter faceplate on the bottom and mount it as close to the edge as possible.
sim1 shows the tweeter in the middle as you have it now and sim2 shows it offset to the bottom.
Attachments
Outstanding
I have a couple of questions. After you did the cloth and resin layup, how many other layers did you apply?
In order to build up the outer final dimensions, it almost looks like you used urethane foam; or made consecutive wraps to build it up to your final form. Great finish. I'd like to see some close-ups.
Thanks
I have a couple of questions. After you did the cloth and resin layup, how many other layers did you apply?
In order to build up the outer final dimensions, it almost looks like you used urethane foam; or made consecutive wraps to build it up to your final form. Great finish. I'd like to see some close-ups.
Thanks
You'd be surprised how effectively felt around a tweeter controls diffraction. It's quite a big diff, there is barely any ripple left if you use a full-faceplate 3/16 cover.
Badman i already ordered 3/16 felt for the tweeters. 🙂 I thing that the diffraction will be wery low after the felt rings.
Steverino, there is only one layer fiberglass cloth with resign. The rest is made completely of polyester filler with glass fibers. The thickness of this is 16mm !! The filler sits on the one cloth fiberglass layer. After this filler layer (and after a lot of sanding) i put a thinner layer of polyester filler without glass fibers. After this a primer (3 layers and wetsanding), 3 layers of color (again wetsanding) and 2 layers clearcoat. Each speaker weights about 40kg + 25kg the granite base =65kg. The cabin seem to be very stiff. Only if the speakers plays VERY loud the cabin barely moves. The layers are same for the mid speakers also.The tweeter cabins are made from mdf rings with 10mm aluminium tube on the center and only a thin layers of fiberglass filler over the mdf rings. (the tube is to keep the rings in straight line). Then i glued the cabins together. The mid-low cabins are also tightened with screws.
Steverino, there is only one layer fiberglass cloth with resign. The rest is made completely of polyester filler with glass fibers. The thickness of this is 16mm !! The filler sits on the one cloth fiberglass layer. After this filler layer (and after a lot of sanding) i put a thinner layer of polyester filler without glass fibers. After this a primer (3 layers and wetsanding), 3 layers of color (again wetsanding) and 2 layers clearcoat. Each speaker weights about 40kg + 25kg the granite base =65kg. The cabin seem to be very stiff. Only if the speakers plays VERY loud the cabin barely moves. The layers are same for the mid speakers also.The tweeter cabins are made from mdf rings with 10mm aluminium tube on the center and only a thin layers of fiberglass filler over the mdf rings. (the tube is to keep the rings in straight line). Then i glued the cabins together. The mid-low cabins are also tightened with screws.
So the polyester filler with glass fibers-is this also impregnated with resin? Then the finish coats? How did you keep the outer dimensions "even" or curvelinear? Great hand work!
the polyester filler (putty) contains polyester resign.It sits on the cloth and betwwen the two plywood circles. On top of this layer is the thinner polyester filler layer and the the primer layer.To give it this <even> outer appearance i was sanding for a few weeks!!
Hi 🙂
I would like to build a speaker with the same driver you have used (but with different cabinet).
My bigger problem is the crossover.
Can you explain yours? how can I made it?
Thanks in advance🙂
- Status
- Not open for further replies.