I'm looking at the Cardas patended binding post.
Will it fit into a speaker with 38 mm (1.5") walls??
Looking at the picture I would say that the bolt in the middle is the crucial part for this. Is it a standard bolt, or something special?
Don't know what they cost yet.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Will it fit into a speaker with 38 mm (1.5") walls??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looking at the picture I would say that the bolt in the middle is the crucial part for this. Is it a standard bolt, or something special?
Don't know what they cost yet.
annex666 said:
There is a desciption on the Cardas site
http://www.cardas.com/cgi-bin/main_...ntent_id=10&pagestring=Patented+Binding+Posts
Here is a another pic borrowed from Welborne labs.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
$44 a pair (4 posts) Is not that expensive. They are a bit less impressive looking than traditional binding posts.
I like the fact that you can tighten down on spades with more force than many other designs. However, I'm betting that crown that the knob tightens is nylon or similar, which would imply that the real world tightening force would be less than the design appears to have.
I'll stick to my gold plated superior electric posts, I've yet to see anything better.
Sheldon
I'll stick to my gold plated superior electric posts, I've yet to see anything better.
Sheldon
GoldPlated
This is what we use mostly in Sweden.
Takes 16 mm^2 cable.
They are also my favourites.
/halojoy
By the way,
Suppose you use 2 of these.
And screw then say, 50 mm separation between + -,
and you use Fiber board.
Fiber board can contain moist, a tiny % of water.
This means that we will NOT have optimal elctrical Isolation
between the poles.
Especially if they are very close together.
So my solution is to attach a plate of a plastic material (better isolator)
screwed unto the LSP-box.
In this plate of plastic, I drill holes,
and put these contacts you can see below.
stokessd said:
This is what we use mostly in Sweden.
Takes 16 mm^2 cable.
They are also my favourites.
/halojoy
By the way,
Suppose you use 2 of these.
And screw then say, 50 mm separation between + -,
and you use Fiber board.
Fiber board can contain moist, a tiny % of water.
This means that we will NOT have optimal elctrical Isolation
between the poles.
Especially if they are very close together.
So my solution is to attach a plate of a plastic material (better isolator)
screwed unto the LSP-box.
In this plate of plastic, I drill holes,
and put these contacts you can see below.
Attachments
Ahh, the internet....here are the facts:
1) The central mounting bolt is a standard one. You can get different lengths at any hardware store.
2) It is designed to work best with spade lugs. This is partly because George Cardas believes spades offer the best connection. (I agree with his assessment.) However, it can also be used with bananas for those who still use them for some reason. Upon request, Cardas will supply the unit with holes drilled into the "clamping block" so that bananas can be inserted. Then tightening the knob will press the sides of the bananas onto the tops of the contact posts. This works better than a standard banana jack, although if you are careless you can exert enough pressure to damage some types of banana plugs.
3) Joe Dirt's suggestion is a good one and may be necessary for 38 mm cabinet walls. In that case, one would probably get the shorter version designed for use with amplifiers.
4) I agree that the cosmetics are not the best I've seen. If cosmetics are important to you, the clamping knob can be replaced with your own design -- laser engraved gold plated titanium, if you so choose.
5) The clamping knob is plastic, but it has a brass insert molded in. You can exert quite a bit of pressure. It sounds far better than the gold-plated Superiors for several reasons. They are rhodium plated over silver with no nickel underplate, there are no threads in the contact posts to introduce skin-effect inductance.
It's by far the best speaker connector I've used, and the price is reasonable. Plus they are easy to use.
Best regards,
Charles Hansen
1) The central mounting bolt is a standard one. You can get different lengths at any hardware store.
2) It is designed to work best with spade lugs. This is partly because George Cardas believes spades offer the best connection. (I agree with his assessment.) However, it can also be used with bananas for those who still use them for some reason. Upon request, Cardas will supply the unit with holes drilled into the "clamping block" so that bananas can be inserted. Then tightening the knob will press the sides of the bananas onto the tops of the contact posts. This works better than a standard banana jack, although if you are careless you can exert enough pressure to damage some types of banana plugs.
3) Joe Dirt's suggestion is a good one and may be necessary for 38 mm cabinet walls. In that case, one would probably get the shorter version designed for use with amplifiers.
4) I agree that the cosmetics are not the best I've seen. If cosmetics are important to you, the clamping knob can be replaced with your own design -- laser engraved gold plated titanium, if you so choose.
5) The clamping knob is plastic, but it has a brass insert molded in. You can exert quite a bit of pressure. It sounds far better than the gold-plated Superiors for several reasons. They are rhodium plated over silver with no nickel underplate, there are no threads in the contact posts to introduce skin-effect inductance.
It's by far the best speaker connector I've used, and the price is reasonable. Plus they are easy to use.
Best regards,
Charles Hansen
One of the advantages of this approach is that the conductor can still be made of solid copper yet the mechanical strength required for a good air tight connection is made with a steel bolt. You get to have your cake and eat it as well.Duck-Twacy said:
I don't think it will extend enough to make the 1-1/2" wall thickness. You'll have to under cut the wall or install a mounting panel. Neither of which are bad options.
Those plastic I use as foundation for these LSP-connectors
I buy very cheap.
In my daily food shop on the corner!
I buy chopping boards. Made by http://www.daloplast.se/
comes in different sizes and thicknesse.
See link below, for info.
The materail is either PP or PE.
PolyPropylen or PolyEthen.
These plastics are know for their good electrical qualities.
Thickness is from 7 mm to 13 mm.
I also use these (chopping-)boards
as foundation for my eletronics, inside Amplifiers.
I do mostly hardwiring, so I do not use PCB- circuit boards.
It is easy to screw aluminium plates onto
these plastic boards to make a cover.
DaloPlast[tm] - ChoppingBoards
halo - please do not thank me for this hint - I might be to proud (not allowed in Sweden)
I buy very cheap.
In my daily food shop on the corner!
I buy chopping boards. Made by http://www.daloplast.se/
comes in different sizes and thicknesse.
See link below, for info.
The materail is either PP or PE.
PolyPropylen or PolyEthen.
These plastics are know for their good electrical qualities.
Thickness is from 7 mm to 13 mm.
I also use these (chopping-)boards
as foundation for my eletronics, inside Amplifiers.
I do mostly hardwiring, so I do not use PCB- circuit boards.
It is easy to screw aluminium plates onto
these plastic boards to make a cover.
DaloPlast[tm] - ChoppingBoards
halo - please do not thank me for this hint - I might be to proud (not allowed in Sweden)
Banned
Joined 2002
Re: Re: Cardas patented binding post
If I look at this pic I think only a longer mid bolt is required... Or do I misunderstand something??
roddyama said:
If I look at this pic I think only a longer mid bolt is required... Or do I misunderstand something??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Banned
Joined 2002
Re: Re: Re: Cardas patented binding post
Duck-Twacy said:
Yes, I think you're both right. I didn't realize that both plastic pieces went on the outside of the box. That would only require clearence holes for the posts and a hole for the bolt. The shoulder of the two post is trapped between the two plastic pieces, but are free to float when the nut is loosened. There would need to be some way to capture the bolt from turning when the nut is tightened.JasonL said:
Banned
Joined 2002
Here's a commercial product that uses it (Avalon pro monitor)
Nice speakers btw, would look good on top of my (still to arrive) Lamba SB12s in 125 liter sealed enclosures
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice speakers btw, would look good on top of my (still to arrive) Lamba SB12s in 125 liter sealed enclosures
!!!!
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