Has anyone used this "Heat Lock" to Iron-on veneer

[andy2]

Just wondering if anyone had used this?
Heat Lock? Iron-On Veneer Glue: The Ultimate Bond

I used Tite-Bond yellow glue before but it could be prone to bubble. I don't know if this particular glue is better though.

 

[jmillerdoc]

I just bought a gallon and will be trying it early next week. I too have used Tightbond II in the past with variable results. I am hoping this stuff will have less bubbling issues. I also bought some Supersoft as well. I used some the other day to flatten some burl wood, it seemed to work quite well. I will be applying it with the new glue soon so I will report back when I do.

Just FYI, one thing I found to help with veneering is using a block of wood wrapped in copper sheet to follow the iron and press down the veneer....it saps the heat out of the veneer fairly well assisting in the cooling and bonding process.
Jeff

 

[andy2]

Just FYI, one thing I found to help with veneering is using a block of wood wrapped in copper sheet to follow the iron and press down the veneer....it saps the heat out of the veneer fairly well assisting in the cooling and bonding process.
Jeff

Thanks for the tip.

 

[buzzforb]

Titebond II would be my suggestion for PVA based glue. If you are going to do iron on, I would suggest paper backing and the block with copper rapping. Too much heat and the veneer will split. Paper back helps alot because there is some flexibilty with substrate below. Solid wood veneer need less heat and a spritz of veneer softener after ironing to keep from splitting. The veneer softener will also reveal bubbles that need to be dealt with. Practice multiple times on spare substrate. Try single sheet veneering as wll as bookmatching, if you will need this in your project. This will give you an idea of how the veneer is going to react. I am currently putting raw birds eye maple on speaker cabinets. Iron on can work great or it can be your worst enemy. I will be using about 300lbs of lead in buckets to do cold press with Titebond II. I use a stiff blue foam sheathing you get at lowe's to make sure even pressure is applied. It is stiff enough to apply equal pressure with just enought give to fill any uneven places that exist. I have had too much trouble with iron on combined with raw wood. Paper backed is different story.