Flared ports
Mark,
I'd be interested in how you build flared ports;
I'm thinking of making my next port out of 150mm dia pipe, cut in half, and positioned next to the side of the box.
That way, the depth of the port is fixed, & to tune it, the length of pipe will need to be varied to get the correct Xsection area.
Any thoughts on this guys?
Cheers,
Pete McK
Mark,
I'd be interested in how you build flared ports;
I'm thinking of making my next port out of 150mm dia pipe, cut in half, and positioned next to the side of the box.
That way, the depth of the port is fixed, & to tune it, the length of pipe will need to be varied to get the correct Xsection area.
Any thoughts on this guys?
Cheers,
Pete McK
how do u know the length of the port if the ends are flared.
vec7or=my jbl box port is9x45cm,it doesnt whistle.its very good.
cerwin vega?if u want a car woofer for small box and high xmax which i dont trust,,its worth it! i saw a 12 for 500$ NZ i was about to buy it but eventualy decided on jbl2226
perhaps it wudve been ok,perhaps it would sound abit bad for home audio with its inherent distortions possibly high Le,and loose suspension for car audio.
email adire and ask about the fungicide
vec7or=my jbl box port is9x45cm,it doesnt whistle.its very good.
cerwin vega?if u want a car woofer for small box and high xmax which i dont trust,,its worth it! i saw a 12 for 500$ NZ i was about to buy it but eventualy decided on jbl2226
perhaps it wudve been ok,perhaps it would sound abit bad for home audio with its inherent distortions possibly high Le,and loose suspension for car audio.
email adire and ask about the fungicide
Okay.. it goes like this...
Peerless XLS 8ohm 12inch --- $273.95 plus postage (87.5db?) 400watts anyone know the SPl of this driver? WinISD calculates it to be about that...
Adire Shiva 12inch --- $272.50 plus GST plus postage (87.2db) 650watts
Jaycar 12" Carbon Fibre Cone 12inch --- $159.95 plus postage (93db) 200watts
Any other good drivers that fall into my price range of under $300 AUSTRALIAN (and I of course have to be able to easily get them in south australia)
hmmmm.. hehe
Peerless XLS 8ohm 12inch --- $273.95 plus postage (87.5db?) 400watts anyone know the SPl of this driver? WinISD calculates it to be about that...
Adire Shiva 12inch --- $272.50 plus GST plus postage (87.2db) 650watts
Jaycar 12" Carbon Fibre Cone 12inch --- $159.95 plus postage (93db) 200watts
Any other good drivers that fall into my price range of under $300 AUSTRALIAN (and I of course have to be able to easily get them in south australia)
hmmmm..
hehe
Oxidation is far more probable, but there are a few on the Basslist who are in favor of the fungus theory due to an anecdotal relation between wet climates and foam rot - interesting that LA is not a very wet climate. The part about the fungicide was more a dry joke than an actual suggestion. Kind of an incomplete reductio ad absurdum...
My main point is that surround material is not all that important to me - it might be to others, but chances are you'll want to replace the driver before it is dead from foam rot or whatever...
How long do foam surrounds last in OZ by your experience? Rubber?
The jaycar, with that high sensitivity, probably hasn't the xmax of the other 2. How much power will be used?
My main point is that surround material is not all that important to me - it might be to others, but chances are you'll want to replace the driver before it is dead from foam rot or whatever...
How long do foam surrounds last in OZ by your experience? Rubber?
The jaycar, with that high sensitivity, probably hasn't the xmax of the other 2. How much power will be used?
I calculate 87.79Hz, but mine is based on a more accurate 1m SPL value than the more rounded off ones I've seen published.
Assuming you're referring to the 830500, this is such a low Q driver that the only way you're going to get decent LF extension will require an even more extreme 'Daline' design than the one you drew, while the Shiva is a purpose built sub driver. I'm not familiar with the Jaycar or any others available Down Under, so between the other two, the Shiva is my choice for a sub and the 830500 for woofer/midbass.
GM
Assuming you're referring to the 830500, this is such a low Q driver that the only way you're going to get decent LF extension will require an even more extreme 'Daline' design than the one you drew, while the Shiva is a purpose built sub driver. I'm not familiar with the Jaycar or any others available Down Under, so between the other two, the Shiva is my choice for a sub and the 830500 for woofer/midbass.
GM
car subs are 'optimised' >probably higher distortion
if i trusted jaycar,i would say to get the carbin fibre 12,cos its efficient,it wil do as a first sub. it has 8mm xmax doesnt it???
cant expect too much,but since its so cheap.
only thing is,i dont know if it wil be that good
but it was that price,i wud actualy get one.
also, i wud get a shiva,and see how long it lasts!;P
in ten years u may want a basshorn that takes up 560Litres anyway
if i trusted jaycar,i would say to get the carbin fibre 12,cos its efficient,it wil do as a first sub. it has 8mm xmax doesnt it???
cant expect too much,but since its so cheap.
only thing is,i dont know if it wil be that good
but it was that price,i wud actualy get one.
also, i wud get a shiva,and see how long it lasts!;P
in ten years u may want a basshorn that takes up 560Litres anyway
Jaycar CF driver
Skinnyboy,
I bought an 8" CF driver from Jaycar several years ago, and used it for a sub. I have to say it's pretty good, really sturdy. and can really pump.
But I think it needs to be in the correct sized box, I had it in a 22litre BR box (around their recommended size), xover around 100Hz. I think that box was too small, and the driver should have crossed over higher.
Unfortunately it's been discontinued, pity, It would have been good in a 2 way cab.
I imagine the 12" would be even better as a sub, but the optimum box size may be too big for you...
Pete McK
Skinnyboy,
I bought an 8" CF driver from Jaycar several years ago, and used it for a sub. I have to say it's pretty good, really sturdy. and can really pump.
But I think it needs to be in the correct sized box, I had it in a 22litre BR box (around their recommended size), xover around 100Hz. I think that box was too small, and the driver should have crossed over higher.
Unfortunately it's been discontinued, pity, It would have been good in a 2 way cab.
I imagine the 12" would be even better as a sub, but the optimum box size may be too big for you...
Pete McK
Flared Ports Alla Mark
Think of this as a staring point. A flared port has two flat ends that are wider than the pipe that you are using right? Ok. The outside wall of your box can be one side. Install it as usual and rout it with the biggest radius that you can get. ( or sand carve and file it if you are on a budget) The interior flare can be created by making a wood washer that you glue the pipe to then rout the interior radius. In practice I make the washer with my jasper circle jig with about a 1 1/2"rim around the pipe. Don't fret if you dont have this little gem. A jig saw will do in a pinch. Not a perfect hole???? No problemo. Your friend the hot glue gun will came to the rescue and fill any holes. It makes a mess when you are routing it but it does clean off your router bit. That is the basics. For a real pro look you must do this. Work from the inside first. Make your donut and afix it to your pipe. Do your routing and make it pretty. Before you assemble your box make your port lacation. Make a chanel 1/4" deep to fit your pipe into. Stick it in and glue it however you desire. On the finnished side of the box knoxk a hole through ito the port and rout the radius using the iterior of your port as a guide. It looks marvelous. Now the secrets out
I expect the cheques to come regularily 
Mark
Think of this as a staring point. A flared port has two flat ends that are wider than the pipe that you are using right? Ok. The outside wall of your box can be one side. Install it as usual and rout it with the biggest radius that you can get. ( or sand carve and file it if you are on a budget) The interior flare can be created by making a wood washer that you glue the pipe to then rout the interior radius. In practice I make the washer with my jasper circle jig with about a 1 1/2"rim around the pipe. Don't fret if you dont have this little gem. A jig saw will do in a pinch. Not a perfect hole???? No problemo. Your friend the hot glue gun will came to the rescue and fill any holes. It makes a mess when you are routing it but it does clean off your router bit. That is the basics. For a real pro look you must do this. Work from the inside first. Make your donut and afix it to your pipe. Do your routing and make it pretty. Before you assemble your box make your port lacation. Make a chanel 1/4" deep to fit your pipe into. Stick it in and glue it however you desire. On the finnished side of the box knoxk a hole through ito the port and rout the radius using the iterior of your port as a guide. It looks marvelous. Now the secrets out
I expect the cheques to come regularily
Mark
my magnet is heavier than yours
mwmkravchenko:interesting!
weight is nothing
its the actual efficiency,the loses,the eddy currents,the actual geometry and design of the magnet that matters..and how it relates to the VC and its excursion etc....
i expect lower excursion woofers to have lower distortion.
the construction quality is better i heard on the XLS..
i think if u go for a shiva,u wont be sad..ive heard lots of ppl say theyre good.
the jaycar carbon fibre is supposed to be 93db,depends how they measure it maybe handy if it was. save on 6db of amp.
if i were you i would try a shiva,for easy of box making.just make it properly,use one of their alignments.i think you could get away with 100Litres internal not 142,just for 3db less output,use winisd to see it.
Notice how the shiva,is Mid-high Q,it needs low tuning,try tuning 30hz ;P
Dont forget the big amp like 200-300watt youl need.
unless u want a basshorn
www.geocities.com/sc00byd0159/link.htm
_mike
mwmkravchenko:interesting!
weight is nothing
its the actual efficiency,the loses,the eddy currents,the actual geometry and design of the magnet that matters..and how it relates to the VC and its excursion etc....
i expect lower excursion woofers to have lower distortion.
the construction quality is better i heard on the XLS..
i think if u go for a shiva,u wont be sad..ive heard lots of ppl say theyre good.
the jaycar carbon fibre is supposed to be 93db,depends how they measure it
maybe handy if it was. save on 6db of amp.if i were you i would try a shiva,for easy of box making.just make it properly,use one of their alignments.i think you could get away with 100Litres internal not 142,just for 3db less output,use winisd to see it.
Notice how the shiva,is Mid-high Q,it needs low tuning,try tuning 30hz ;P
Dont forget the big amp like 200-300watt youl need.
unless u want a basshorn
www.geocities.com/sc00byd0159/link.htm
_mike
Yeah, well... I think for now I will just finish my towers... and HOPE that the woofers will actually fit.. hehe
These towers are HUGE!!! I can't carry them
asking an off topic question in my own post... ohh dear.. lol
when I finish these towers they will have an internal volume of about 65 litres... could I in the future build the current 8inch woofer into a sealed 10litre enclosue and use the remaining 50litres for a side mounted 10 or 12inch sub... any advantage in this? any disadvantage...??
heheThese towers are HUGE!!! I can't carry them
asking an off topic question in my own post... ohh dear.. lol
when I finish these towers they will have an internal volume of about 65 litres... could I in the future build the current 8inch woofer into a sealed 10litre enclosue and use the remaining 50litres for a side mounted 10 or 12inch sub... any advantage in this? any disadvantage...??
any disadvantage in having sidemounted subs?not that i know of aslong as its only doing bass eg below 70hz
-i think./
but why have an 8inch and 10/12inch doing nearly the same job
i see some car audio guys saying to get 15s for kick 12s for low end 10s for punch and 8s for midbass -lol
well as for me,im designing a 105db/1watt basshorn for my 15inch jbl ,see if it can fit in my room
-i think./
but why have an 8inch and 10/12inch doing nearly the same job
i see some car audio guys saying to get 15s for kick 12s for low end 10s for punch and 8s for midbass -lol
well as for me,im designing a 105db/1watt basshorn for my 15inch jbl ,see if it can fit in my room
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