Danley DIY Synergy Horn kit - Page 10 - AVS Forum
Please see #280 where Mr. Danley talks about potential kits....I heard the original Unitys @ a SOCAL BASS meeting many moons ago and they filled a big room with a better sound than the Orions and I liked them also... I can only imagine what can be done 10 years latter.
dennis
Please see #280 where Mr. Danley talks about potential kits....I heard the original Unitys @ a SOCAL BASS meeting many moons ago and they filled a big room with a better sound than the Orions and I liked them also... I can only imagine what can be done 10 years latter.
dennis
I'm in on the DTS-10 kit this time. I'm getting two.
Click on the Danley Sound Labs site: Danley Sound Labs - Home of Tom Danley - Innovative Designer of Pro Loudspeakers & Subwoofers. Yesterday I emailed Tom and saw that the website now lists the DTS-10 kit again. The price is up a litle bit, Jeff says it's due to increased costs for the drivers, but this time there's no 'packing fee'. Cut from the news on their site:
*New* DTS-10 DIY Kits back by popular demand!From today through September 30, 2011 for only $1,075! To place your order, call us at 877-419-5805 or send us an email to jeff@danleysoundlabs.com
Click here for a "how-to" from a satisfied customer.
Click on the Danley Sound Labs site: Danley Sound Labs - Home of Tom Danley - Innovative Designer of Pro Loudspeakers & Subwoofers. Yesterday I emailed Tom and saw that the website now lists the DTS-10 kit again. The price is up a litle bit, Jeff says it's due to increased costs for the drivers, but this time there's no 'packing fee'. Cut from the news on their site:
*New* DTS-10 DIY Kits back by popular demand!From today through September 30, 2011 for only $1,075! To place your order, call us at 877-419-5805 or send us an email to jeff@danleysoundlabs.com
Click here for a "how-to" from a satisfied customer.
A Synergy Horn kit? 
This DIY audio thing is really, really getting expensive! Had PA parts/woofers and an amp laying around--built my sub. Then I built surround sound speakers--then a 2.5 way center channel and done! Well, I do NEED a 6 foot tall array to fight audio hell in a metal walled garage (under construction) Maybe a tapped horn to go with it (programming design phase)
Now the Synergy might roll out as a KIT? Just the drivers and horn, I can cut wood (see 48T/12W array) Instead of the 12's, 10's or 8's can be used to make the horns smaller since 60 to 80Hz is fine for home use.
Topping 15 watt USB T-Amp to drive? It should be enough umph since the sub takes care of under 80Hz and those Synergies run around 98dB or higher at one watt.
Sometimes is takes a lot of money and effort to be the Village Audio Idiot.
This DIY audio thing is really, really getting expensive! Had PA parts/woofers and an amp laying around--built my sub. Then I built surround sound speakers--then a 2.5 way center channel and done! Well, I do NEED a 6 foot tall array to fight audio hell in a metal walled garage (under construction) Maybe a tapped horn to go with it (programming design phase)
Now the Synergy might roll out as a KIT? Just the drivers and horn, I can cut wood (see 48T/12W array) Instead of the 12's, 10's or 8's can be used to make the horns smaller since 60 to 80Hz is fine for home use.
Topping 15 watt USB T-Amp to drive? It should be enough umph since the sub takes care of under 80Hz and those Synergies run around 98dB or higher at one watt.
Sometimes is takes a lot of money and effort to be the Village Audio Idiot.
A Synergy Horn kit?
Now the Synergy might roll out as a KIT?
Sometimes is takes a lot of money and effort to be the Village Audio Idiot.
I feeel your pain, but this kit might be the end of the journey for some of us.....
dennis
I don't think the DTS-10 (or any other riff on a 6th order bandwidth cabinet) is especially good for a Geddes-style system. It is too limited in bandwidth on top.
A Synergy Horn kit?
Hopefully, one based around their new molded horn + 5" BMS coax. It's a very, very cool design.
mmmmmmmm,
I was going to use one(or two) as the ultra low frequency part of a Geddes-style system...
( he originally said use any three or more subs, unmatched if possible, with at least one going as low as you wish to go)
My goal is to play the bottom key on the piano at live sound levels and with live dynamics.
dennis
As long as a pair of the subs can go upwards to 120-150 Hz I think you should be fine. It is a good idea to have one sub go very low. But I also believe that horns for LFs is not a good use of limited space. Fine for Pro where max SPL is required and space is not limited, but for a small room I think that small closed boxes are a better choice.
Well, that's different from what I had in mind when you mentioned "third sub." In the ULF position a DTS-10 could work, though I've never personally done a system with a subwoofer covering such a limited bandwidth. All of the systems I've done using Geddes' setup advice have used subwoofers that could all play cleanly an octave above the passband in which I ended up using them.
Also, considering the size and price of the DTS-10, I think it's possible to exceed its low-end performance using direct radiators in the same space. The DTS-10 is what, 60" x45"x16" or thereabouts? That's about 20 cubic feet, assuming .75" material and reasonable-not-stupid amounts of bracing. You could fit, for instance, 8 Peerless SLS12's ($580.64 at PE, shipped) in that space. (You can also use better woofers, at higher cost, but that's the cheapest good one of which I know.) That should get you to the same ~110dB at 20Hz that the DTS10 can do. And do it without the upper-end nastiness.
I don't think you need that much sub to reproduce a grand piano, though. I think it's vanishingly unlike you will ever hear a piano go over 100dB in the bass. And if that's all you need, you can get there with a thirty-five liter sub.
Assuming one doesn't care about reproducing anything below tuning, a small passive-radiator sub also does well. The one linked-to above, for instance, is tuned to about 17Hz and is very small. Some people, admittedly, break out into hives if their subs can't reproduce 10Hz cleanly.
Assuming one doesn't care about reproducing anything below tuning, a small passive-radiator sub also does well. The one linked-to above, for instance, is tuned to about 17Hz and is very small. Some people, admittedly, break out into hives if their subs can't reproduce 10Hz cleanly.
A passive radiator sub is what I use (Subs) except in a monopole bandpass configuration - more efficiency at the very lowest frequencies so that it can extend - via EQ - down to whatever frequency that you want.
Attachments
I saw that recently. Looks like you're half the way to an acoustic lever now! Just need a third trapped volume and a different PR.
I use a 3.5 cu ft passive radiator subwoofer--I like it and it works well for music AND finding structural rattles during movie explosions.
The drive for infrasonic bass is more a home theater thing--I'd like 130 dB peaks at 16 Hz although window replacement would be costly. The only way to get to that level with accurate reproduction and not build the room out of subwoofers is something like the DTS-10.
My present subwoofer does music very well (Isobarik 15) it scares my wife during movie explosions--but the dog does not show fear. Back to the drawing board...time to mix PA horns but drive them low like they do in theaters.
The drive for infrasonic bass is more a home theater thing--I'd like 130 dB peaks at 16 Hz although window replacement would be costly. The only way to get to that level with accurate reproduction and not build the room out of subwoofers is something like the DTS-10.
My present subwoofer does music very well (Isobarik 15) it scares my wife during movie explosions--but the dog does not show fear. Back to the drawing board...time to mix PA horns but drive them low like they do in theaters.
I still contend that using multiple smaller subs will outperform something like a single DTS-10 when the same total volume is used. Distributing subs of high output and power handling can do the kinds of SPL levels you are talking about.
The distributed subs may have substancially lower distorsion for the same in-room spl level.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Maybe thats true, but its not a big factor IMO. I have found that the biggest problems with subs are clipping the amps (which is almost always the limiting factor with subs that have plate amps) or nonharmonic noises from flow noise in ports. Thats why I use a passive radiator (no extraneous noises) and external amps (get as much power as you want). When this is done, nonlinear distortion is never an issue.
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