Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 5th April 2011, 01:45 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Default Avaclone driver hole chamfering?

I'm a first time builder looking to join the ranks of the many other DIYers who have made Avalon cabinet clones with accuton/eton drivers. The cabinets look as follows:
http://homepage.mac.com/marc.heijlig...t/cabinet.html

I've rounded over the driver holes as described in the drawings, and am ready to glue the front baffle onto the speaker. Then I read this :
chamfering driver holes
Now I'm concerned about driver airflow
Because there are already braces so close to the drivers, my only chamfering option is #3. I haven't seen this configuration recommended anywhere else, however.

Other Avaclones seem to simply round over the holes as I've already done, and even pictures I've seen of Avalon Acoustic speakers indicate they probably only round over. My question is - should I chamfer? Should I just leave it rounded over for fear of changing the frequency response of the drivers since I'm using an already designed crossover? How big of a difference would this really make?
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th April 2011, 02:37 AM   #2
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
C is the best... and strongly recommended.

Click the image to open in full size.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th April 2011, 03:05 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
C is the best... and strongly recommended.

dave
Thanks for the input. I would imagine C would be the best, and in future projects I'm planning on making a point to accommodate such a chamfer. Currently that's not so much an option, since the mid and woofer driver holes are only about an inch or so above cabinet bracings (too late to change this now). If I were to chamfer the double baffle at a 45 degree angle it would 'scoop out' where the bracing meets the baffle (can't think of a good way to describe it, so I'll draw a picture later if its not clear). D seems to be my best bet for chamfering, or doing E at a smaller angle. You seem to feel chamfering is worth the effort, any idea which of those options might be best?

Also, I've been reading about chamfering in regards to mids and woofers, but haven't been able to read anything in regards to tweeters. I would imagine the benefits would be the same, but I would think this would bring up all sorts of issues with thinning out the baffle, especially when you have the tweeter and mids as close together as they are on the Avaclones. Thoughts?
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 04:34 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
C is the best... and strongly recommended.

Click the image to open in full size.

dave
What about D or E?
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 04:46 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by buggsson View Post
What about D or E?
Thanks for the reply

D is possible, and what I am strongly leaning towards. I have about 3/8" from the midrange cutout to braces, and about 13/16" from the woofer to braces. This makes E a little troublesome given a 2" baffle, but it might be possible if I were to use a 12 degree chamfer bit as opposed to the traditional 45 degree.

I could see reasoning behind either. Doing D would leave parallel walls around the driver, which might promote more reflections back towards the membrane than E with a slighter angle. At the same time, E with a slighter angle would also leave less room for air to flow away from the driver closer to where the driver mounts. I'm sure either will be an improvement from what I have, though.

Also, how important is to do the same for the tweeter?
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th April 2011, 11:39 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by superapplekid View Post
Thanks for the reply

D is possible, and what I am strongly leaning towards. I have about 3/8" from the midrange cutout to braces, and about 13/16" from the woofer to braces. This makes E a little troublesome given a 2" baffle, but it might be possible if I were to use a 12 degree chamfer bit as opposed to the traditional 45 degree.
What do you think of just going with the 45 degree where it works, and just not chamfer where it is not possible, as close to your bracing etc.? I'm thinking this way, but I'll check just how much less chamfer there will be in comparison.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th April 2011, 12:19 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by buggsson View Post
What do you think of just going with the 45 degree where it works, and just not chamfer where it is not possible, as close to your bracing etc.? I'm thinking this way, but I'll check just how much less chamfer there will be in comparison.
If I'm reading you correct, that would be like D (expect specific to have much room I have to work with). I think that is that route I'm leaning towards, both for airflow and for ease of building.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th April 2011, 06:08 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by superapplekid View Post
If I'm reading you correct, that would be like D (expect specific to have much room I have to work with)
I'll try to be more precise. Think of the full circle, and where the baffle edges will meet the sides for example. If, for example, you strive for a very narrow baffle, where the baffle is not much wider than your driver, you route the circle, but where the sides will meet the baffle, you do not route, so your circle will be truncated where the baffle meet the sides. You must then of course, decide if the truncation is usable, or intrudes too much on the "breathing requirements". Quite a few do the same for where their T-nuts will be on the backside of the baffle. Clearer? My explaining has huge room for improvements.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First attemt to cut driver hole with router.... FAIL!!! The Paulinator Multi-Way 34 19th October 2011 11:07 PM
Focal Dayton Avaclone fivestring Multi-Way 1 14th March 2010 08:56 AM
Hole drills TubeMack Tubes / Valves 36 14th June 2009 11:59 PM
Hole in driver dome 3-LockBox Full Range 10 30th August 2007 10:27 PM
Crossover hole joelives Multi-Way 10 29th June 2003 08:27 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:12 AM.

Page generated in 0.11510 seconds (76.06% PHP - 23.94% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio