Dion,
I would try www.hasaudio.com.nz first. $109 from Essential Audio and $73.03 from Hasaudio. It won't cost $36 a driver from NZ. Which drivers are you after anyway?
Frank
I would try www.hasaudio.com.nz first. $109 from Essential Audio and $73.03 from Hasaudio. It won't cost $36 a driver from NZ. Which drivers are you after anyway?
Frank
alot is still to be figured. im thinking of getting the 'miniDSP' kit to do some crossovers and nice way to equalize it.
powered by 25V transformer (300va as i got it for free) obviously converted to DC.
the amp board has some speaker protection in it already im pretty sure.
i orderd a whole heap of NE5532's for inverting and any other crossovers i need to do
powered by 25V transformer (300va as i got it for free) obviously converted to DC.
the amp board has some speaker protection in it already im pretty sure.
i orderd a whole heap of NE5532's for inverting and any other crossovers i need to do
i actually had a couple of questions on the lm3886's, seeing as you have used them.
how how do they normally get, mine are clamped to the heatsink by a plate of steel pushing them onto it. It get to the stage where i can put my finger on it for second or so before its too hot. is that normal? also my supply V is 36V DC, possibly too high?
Dion
how how do they normally get, mine are clamped to the heatsink by a plate of steel pushing them onto it. It get to the stage where i can put my finger on it for second or so before its too hot. is that normal? also my supply V is 36V DC, possibly too high?
Dion
Dion,
Do you have a multimeter with a thermometer attachment to measure the temperature? I have 4 amps attached to a 300mm x 75mm finned heatsink and it doesn't get very warm even when the guy in the next street can hear it.
The supply of +-36V should be the unloaded voltage. Under load, it will drop so it will be fine so long as you don't use too low an impedance driver.
Are you going to do a wiring plan, on paper or computer, before you start wiring?
Frank
Do you have a multimeter with a thermometer attachment to measure the temperature? I have 4 amps attached to a 300mm x 75mm finned heatsink and it doesn't get very warm even when the guy in the next street can hear it.
The supply of +-36V should be the unloaded voltage. Under load, it will drop so it will be fine so long as you don't use too low an impedance driver.
Are you going to do a wiring plan, on paper or computer, before you start wiring?
Frank
Frank,
yes i have 4 chips on a 250*200*40 heatsink and like i said, its nicely warm when pumping it, thats in to 4ohm. the sub is actually dual voice coil so im making it 8ohm so it should be cooler still. So the heatsink is fine, im just not sure about the clamping holding them on the heatsink, its pretty hot but cools super quick if i turn it off. i'll try and get temperatures. I'm guessing about 70*C or more for the clamp and about 50*C for the heatsink. (amp also stays cold when in idle)
36v is indeed unloaded but im changing the transformer to bring it down slightly to 34v unloaded.
Everything is already wired and working. goes through a 27V transformer through full rectifier and 20000uf smoothing caps on both side. Through the mono amp board wich is 4 chips bridged-paralleled, an into the sub. The only thing going to be added is the active crossover on the input wish will be the one of 'Elliot sound products, subwoofer controller'.
Dion
yes i have 4 chips on a 250*200*40 heatsink and like i said, its nicely warm when pumping it, thats in to 4ohm. the sub is actually dual voice coil so im making it 8ohm so it should be cooler still. So the heatsink is fine, im just not sure about the clamping holding them on the heatsink, its pretty hot but cools super quick if i turn it off. i'll try and get temperatures. I'm guessing about 70*C or more for the clamp and about 50*C for the heatsink. (amp also stays cold when in idle)
36v is indeed unloaded but im changing the transformer to bring it down slightly to 34v unloaded.
Everything is already wired and working. goes through a 27V transformer through full rectifier and 20000uf smoothing caps on both side. Through the mono amp board wich is 4 chips bridged-paralleled, an into the sub. The only thing going to be added is the active crossover on the input wish will be the one of 'Elliot sound products, subwoofer controller'.
Dion
Hi guys, some drivers im looking at are on special at the moment at hasaudio.co.nz so i was thinking of just getting them. I though i would try and run them past as many people as i could just for... whatever, thoughts really. so here they are:
For manins: Peerless 8" 830869
For Tweeters:
Vifa NE25VTT-04 1" Titanium Dome Tweeter - Hasaudio
or
Vifa - Vifa XT25TG30-04 Tweeter - Hasaudio
cheers
Dion
For manins: Peerless 8" 830869
For Tweeters:
Vifa NE25VTT-04 1" Titanium Dome Tweeter - Hasaudio
or
Vifa - Vifa XT25TG30-04 Tweeter - Hasaudio
cheers
Dion
Dion,
I use the Peerless 830869 in a three way, as I said above. However, they did start out as a two way using the 830869 as the woofer (obviously, I suppose).
They were crossed over at 2.5kHz and were good as a mid-woofer. Originally passive, I then converted one to active to compare with the passive; chalk and cheese. That is when I got the bug to convert to three way and better still with the smaller mid.
With a 15" woofer (actually more a subwoofer), you could use a 830869 to 2.8 to 3kHz and cross to a tweeter with an active 24dB crossover. It can also handle the bass to low enough enough to complement the woofer.
Check Zaph's website for reviews of tweeters. Having said that, he does say big things about the XT25. If it was me, I would go for it.
Frank
I use the Peerless 830869 in a three way, as I said above. However, they did start out as a two way using the 830869 as the woofer (obviously, I suppose).
They were crossed over at 2.5kHz and were good as a mid-woofer. Originally passive, I then converted one to active to compare with the passive; chalk and cheese. That is when I got the bug to convert to three way and better still with the smaller mid.
With a 15" woofer (actually more a subwoofer), you could use a 830869 to 2.8 to 3kHz and cross to a tweeter with an active 24dB crossover. It can also handle the bass to low enough enough to complement the woofer.
Check Zaph's website for reviews of tweeters. Having said that, he does say big things about the XT25. If it was me, I would go for it.
Frank
yea Franks that was pretty much what i was working on, i was just a bit skeptic because both are just so cheap. but then again their vifa and peerless HDS so they cant be too bad 
.
I mean $200AUD including postage for two 8" and tweets, haha bargain
just a side note/question: say its active crossed at 3khz, the tweeter need to be passively crossed at about 1kHz right to protect against DC startup and shutdown of the amp etc? something around 50uF? (cross point to octaves below active one)
. I mean $200AUD including postage for two 8" and tweets, haha bargain
just a side note/question: say its active crossed at 3khz, the tweeter need to be passively crossed at about 1kHz right to protect against DC startup and shutdown of the amp etc? something around 50uF? (cross point to octaves below active one)
yea you have misunderstood
its a full 3 way active (10 lm3886's in total, 4 sub, 2 left, 2 right, 2 tweets)
In a passive two way, the the tweets are protected from DC by the passive crossover, in an active this doesn't exist, so start up an shutdown noise on the amp is potentially lethal to them, (because its almost DC and obviously doesn't mix well with tweets).
so to protect the active setup, a capacitor is one of the options (effectively a passive crossover), about 2 octaves from the 'real' crossover so it doesn't affect sound quality or phase
its a full 3 way active (10 lm3886's in total, 4 sub, 2 left, 2 right, 2 tweets)
In a passive two way, the the tweets are protected from DC by the passive crossover, in an active this doesn't exist, so start up an shutdown noise on the amp is potentially lethal to them, (because its almost DC and obviously doesn't mix well with tweets).
so to protect the active setup, a capacitor is one of the options (effectively a passive crossover), about 2 octaves from the 'real' crossover so it doesn't affect sound quality or phase
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.