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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Quote:
this what I use > uni-box UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design - Kristian Ougaard
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like four million tons of hydrogen exploding on the sun like the whisper of the termites building castles in the dust |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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cheers thanks infinia
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#13 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Port Melbourne, Australia
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Dion,
What are planning to do with the driver? Frank |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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ohk this is the setup: (all crossovers active, thus tri-amping)
1 Fahrenheit 15" subwoofer (as far as i know its an unknown brand but i got it cheap, $50, and took a gamble. i seams to have paid off, sounds nice etc.) crossover at 80-100hz 2 bass/midrange drivers. here im thinking the 830883's active cross about 3kHz i guess 2 tweeters, undecided yet at the moment all are planned to be powered from LM3886 amp boards due to their quality
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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I was also considering using the following as it is class D and will run cooler.
although it can reach 100W per channel its 10% THD. however, running it at 70W (0.005% THD) per channel and bridging it into an 8 ohm speakers seams good. Class D amp thoughts? Dion PS this is the class A or AB everything was planned to run on so far: LM3886 Last edited by DionG; 27th March 2011 at 01:26 PM. |
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#16 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Port Melbourne, Australia
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Dion,
I can tell you for certain that you won't use anywhere near 70 Watts for one driver in an active three way system. I have an active three way using an 8", 5 1/4" and 25mm and the transformer I use is rated at 160VA. When it is at about half volume, the guy in the next street can hear it fairly clearly so, unless you have cast iron ears, you won't use power that high. I am in Port Melbourne, so if you are in Melbourne, you are quite welcome to have an inspection and listen. Frank |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Frank, basically im trying to kill 2 birds with one stone, ie. general usage stuff and occasionally music for parties. the reason i wan to them to take high power is so they can be turned up, without them getting permanent damage.
again the bridged amp into the 8 ohm can only physically put out 135 watt. so say 110 to 125 watt RMS would be the maximum (assuming they can handle the volume). Im going to guess your going to say that thats to loud but either way, do you think the 830883's will take 130W music style power or if you think theirs definitely a better option? cheers Dion |
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#18 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Port Melbourne, Australia
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Dion,
If you are tri-amping, you WON'T need to use that much power to an individual driver. There won't be any losses in a passive cross-over to worry about plus you won't be dividing the power of an amp between three drivers. I use; 8" Peerless 830869 51/4" Peerless 832873 1" Vifa very old tri-amped with LM3886 for all and bridged on the woofer. I repeat the offer; if you are Melbourne, you are welcome to have the cobwebs blown out of your ears with my speakers to hear how loud they can be. If you used mine at a party, no one would hear themselves think, let alone hear what someone else is saying. Frank |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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alright haha
are you 8" ones running of single chips each? but no sorry im in QLD, thanks for the offer though ![]() cheers Dion |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
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Quote:
that's the typical description of a system under high distortion. I would think the mid amps are clipping 1st, with small mid drivers around 86dB/m sensitivity. I think it's more important to have extra gain pwr overhead so you never reach compression.
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