I've got two 8" woofers and two tweeters...

[brianhj]

Ok I don't see a dumb question forum so I guess I'll post it here. Hopefully the mods can move it as they see fit. Anyway....

I have 2 Peerless SLS 830667 8" woofers and 2 LPG 25NFA 1" tweeters in my closet. I'm thinking about putting them to use in a speaker building project for my home or garage.

What size midrange would you choose to put with in a 3-way speaker setup? I was looking at these peerless woofers. Since they are 8-ohm. I suppose I should be matching ohms here?

I looked at the frequency response graph of the LPGs.. it looks like they are good down to 3khz and the peerless mids are good from 375hz to 3khz and then the peerless lows i have are good up to 375hz.... SINCE i'm looking at the dayton 3-way crossover 375/3000 from PE.

Big question.. does this sound like it will work.. decently? Are there any huge flaws anyone sees?

I really want to do this.. on the cheap. And it will be good experience. I want them to sound decent as well. I've cut baffles for my car audio stuff using plywood and MDF. What material should I use here? Should each speaker have it's own seperated air space within the enclosure? (I'd like to keep it simple..)

Thanks for reading. lol

[AEIOU]

Here are a few links to some additional information.
Peerless 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer
https://www.madisound.com/store/manu...ess/830667.pdf
Peerless SLS drivers, particularly 8" 830667 - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by AEIOU

Here are a few links to some additional information.
Peerless 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer
https://www.madisound.com/store/manu...ess/830667.pdf
Peerless SLS drivers, particularly 8" 830667 - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com

?? Yeah i have that info...

[Francec]

Brian,
I've built three ways using Peerless drivers;
8" 830869
5 1/4" 832873
1" Vifa tweeter.
I am very happy with the sound and approached as you have looking at the FR of the drivers. I also started out as two ways and added the mid range.

The difference is that I went active, using amps and an active crossover from Rod Elliott - ESP Sound Products. I found that it made it far easier than having to deal with the vagaries of a passive crossover.

Frank

[brianhj]

Vagaries of passive crossovers.. please elaborate

[AEIOU]

Originally Posted by brianhj

?? Yeah i have that info...

Off the shelf crossovers are usually not that good.
While you are at it, have you been to the PartsExpress Tech Talk Forum?
Post your question there and you'll get a bunch of replies.

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by AEIOU

PartsExpress Tech Talk Forum

good idea! didn't even cross my mind that they might have a forum. thanks

[sreten]

Hi,

Whilst active is more predictable than than poor passive design,
the simple fact is most simple actives are far from optimum.

rgds, sreten.

http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy (see FAQs)
Zaph|Audio
FRD Consortium tools guide
RJB Audio Projects
Speaker Design Works
HTGuide Forum - A Guide to HTguide.com Completed Speaker Designs.
Humble Homemade Hifi
DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen
Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
The Frugal-Horns Site -- High Performance, Low Cost DIY Horn Designs
Linkwitz Lab - Loudspeaker Design
Music and Design

[Francec]

Vagaries of passive crossovers.. please elaborate

With passive, there is impedance matching, slope matching and all of the ineractions between drivers to consider. With active and using 24dB slopes, as long as the drivers have reasonable frequency overlap (and they do), each driver is driven by its own amp and all of the passive considerations are unnecessary.

I appreciate what sreten is saying, however, active makes the whole thing easier and I, and many others, believe better sounding. It may be a little more expensive (may not either) but the odds of getting something that sounds really good are far better.

If you need Baffle Step Compensation (and you may not if you round the cabinet edges) then that can be achieved at line level. Your drivers have a fairly flat frequency response so you won't have to worry about notch filters. Ergo, even easier going active.

Frank