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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY State
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First off...
Hellow! I just found this place. I got the speaker building bug and I must admit that I have much to learn about it. This is what I want to do..... I want to put together basically a 2-way sys for my TV. It will consist of a 8 ohm 3" full range driver and a 1" 6 ohm tweeter with a 3k crossover. Also, I want to add a 8 ohm L-pad to adjust the tweeter level. This wiil be driven by an amp that can handel a 4-8 ohm load. Is all this OK? Am I right in assuming that the cross over will maintain basically a 8 ohm load? Also, is the fact that the tweeter is 6 ohms of any significance? BTW, the 3' driver will be a "Tang Band W3-881SJ". Is 3K a good cross over point for it. Also, the sys will be fed through the high pass filter of a powered sub. Although, I may set it up so I can bypass the sub if I want to. Any and all input is gretly aprceiated. Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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If you got the 'fever' , don't matter . Take all the speakers you want and
start making boxes . I would say 3 KHz may be good if the 3" is used as a midrange ,so you may cut lower. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Poland
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For cut-off frequency of 3KHz you should install the driver in proper distance between them. I wish i could help about this but i dont know how to count the relations between distance of drivers and cut off frequency. Im sure someone on this forum will help You about this.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY State
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Thanks for the replys.
One thing I was not sure about is the electrical intergity all what I want to do. Is the fact that the tweeter is 6 ohms a problem? Will the crossover maintain basically a 8 ohm load? Any other potential problems? As far as acoustical coupling or interferance betwen the two are concerned, I do plan on mounting the tweeter in a seperate enclosure so, it can more or less be moved to a optimum location. Thanks for pointing that out though as the seperate enclosures were originally going to be just to make it easier to install in a particular area . However, it wiil also allow some movement between the mid driver and the tweeter. Also, i picked 3k as the crossover point because some were saying higher and some lower. I just compromised with 3k. However, I just want to take advantage of the expertise/opinions here. Last edited by JoeDJ; 7th March 2011 at 01:17 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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re:'Is the fact that the tweeter is 6 ohms a problem?' - no, as long as the crossover is properly designed - i.e. you're using the actual value of impedance at the crossover freq in your calculations....
Re: crossover freq - looking at the FR plot for the Tangband, I'd crossover at 2 KHz because the driver has a jump in response above that. However, this depends on your tweeter - what is it? (an alternative - the Tangband resonds well up to 10KHz, if it sounds good, you could just add a supertweeter from there up)
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky Last edited by PeteMcK; 7th March 2011 at 09:06 PM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY State
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OK....
I was thinking about using a "HiVi SD1.1-A" dome tweeter. To be honest, I was basically going to mount the tweeters in the end of a small piece of PVC pipe (posibly in an end cap) so it can be moved and pointed as needed. It's a bit of a strange arangement I have to deal will in the TV room and it's hard to explain. As for the crossover, I was going to use a Daytion Audio unit. EDIT: After looking more closely at the specs, (freq response 2000-20000hz) it seems to me to that a higher croossover point would be prudent with this tweeter... Am I right? I just want a relatively flat respose (to my aging ears) at low to mid volumes. Anyway I was going to try the Tang Bands alone first to see how it sounds and take it from there. I was thinking tweeters because there is not too much hi freq reflections in the roiom...... and my old ears. Thanks for your input. Last edited by JoeDJ; 7th March 2011 at 10:12 PM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
some links, they get hairier : http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy (see FAQs) Zaph|Audio FRD Consortium tools guide RJB Audio Projects Speaker Design Works HTGuide Forum - A Guide to HTguide.com Completed Speaker Designs. Humble Homemade Hifi DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design The Frugal-Horns Site -- High Performance, Low Cost DIY Horn Designs Linkwitz Lab - Loudspeaker Design Music and Design checkout : http://sites.google.com/site/undefin...ightsensations Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini Zaph|Audio a good 3" is probably better tweeterless ..... rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY State
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^
Thanks, that will keep me busy for a while. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Athens, GA
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Greetings and welcome to diy!
3in full range designs are plentiful. The needles, the TABAQ, the Del Sol's are just a few that pop into my mind just from this forum. The beauty of these designs is that they get you into the hobby with out killing your wallet. It's amazing what you can get out of a 3in driver with the right design. But beware... Once you crawl down the diy rabbit hole, it's very difficult to get back out. Before you know what's happening, you're building speakers to experiment, or try a new type of design or driver, and before you know it you're building more and more speakers! But it's cool. You're just starting out. No worries. I'm sure you'll be able to stop after just one pair. |
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#10 | ||
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
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