Jasper jig and metabo routers

[DIY_Peter]

Does anyone here know if the jasper jig fits on a metabo router?

Or maybe you know of a similar tool that fits on a metabo router?

[rabbitz]

It's not on their list on their website.

http://www.jasperaudio.com/plist.htm

You can look at the hole spacing on the box to see if it suits or drill new holes to suit your router.

I didn't buy one - just made one out of an old nylon breadboard. I just have to drill a new hole for each new radius I want to do and it pivots on a 6.3mm drill shank. It works great. I suppose this is a DIY site.

Cheers
Peter (Rabbitz)

[DIY_Peter]

Originally posted by rabbitz
It's not on their list on their website.

http://www.jasperaudio.com/plist.htm


I didn't buy one - just made one out of an old nylon breadboard. I just have to drill a new hole for each new radius I want to do and it pivots on a 6.3mm drill shank. It works great. I suppose this is a DIY site.

Cheers
Peter (Rabbitz)

I thought about that myself. Didn't know if it would work. But apparently it does.
I'll try it. Thanks!

[rabbitz]

I've included a scan of the jig.

It is made out of a 8mm thick board and a 39mm hole is for allowing different size bits through plus is also used for setting up on the router. Took the bottom plate off the router and placed this on and back marked the mounting holes. Drilled and countersunk these.

When I need a radius I just subtract 22.5mm (19.5mm + 6mm bit) from the radius I need and measure this distance from the edge of the hole (in line with the centreline of the 39mm hole) and mark the position of the pivot hole. Drill a 6.3mm hole in the jig and the centre of hole of want to cut, insert my pin which is long enough to go through the jig and job and presto - rabates and holes. Easier to do than to describe.

The small holes are for jig attachment to the router (countersunk on the other side), the larger holes are are for the pivot.

Hope this helps.

[rolfy72]

I was just about to throw the old chop'in board out(DIY'ed a new1!) Guess I wont be now...

By the looks the board, u used it for food first...whats cook'in mate?

[Bikeman]

I didn't even get as fancy as a breadboard. I had some 6mm MDF so I just cut a bit off and drilled some holes to attach the router.
I cut a larger hole for the router bit and measured from the outside of the bit to the desired radius.
Then it was just drilling a pilot hole and whacking through a nail.
Cheap and nasty, but certainly effective. And no-one gets upset about having a breadboard sacrificed!
Just make sure you test the jig on a piece of scrap before using it, too small is OK, but too big sucks.

Mark

[psychokids]

Hello,

I also made a router circle cutting jig, but I drilled a ton of holes so that I can make any size from i think 3" to just over 18 in 1/16 increments. It turned out a lot like the jasper jig, probably because its pretty much the only way you can fit that many holes in a logical pattern, and because its very conveniantly a 12x12 piece of plastic cut in half. I made up the drill pattern on autocad and temporarily glued it to the plastic. If you feel like drilling a few hundred holes so you wont have to worry about it again, I'll send you the autocad file. I'm sure its pretty easy to adapt the mounts to fit your router.

-Chris

[JOE DIRT®]

Chris....very intuitive...I have done the same in a manufacturing environment

CHEERS!! The DIRT®

[Keith D]

While you guys are talking about routers, I was wondering how to round over the edges of the front baffle. Do I build the speaker first and then run the router around the front freehand or so I need to round the edges before I install the baffle? I would just go and try it myself but I can't use the router whenever I want and my dad's letting me use it on sunday.
Thanks

[Wright]

Kieth. Build the speakers first, then use a roundover bit on the baffles. The bit's have a bearing that will follow the edge and smoothly round over the baffle.

Psychokids, if you wouldn't mind, I'd love to get ahold of that autocad file. Thanks,

George