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Old 14th February 2011, 11:59 AM   #11
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So just to be sure, my caps say 3.3k 100v and 4.7k 100v on them and thats all they have printed onthe side.

From the links above for the Ampohm FP-CA-AU 630vdc they do a 3.3uf 630v and a 4.7uf 630volt. Are these the ones to replace mine with or have i got this all wrong?


Thanks again
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Old 14th February 2011, 12:28 PM   #12
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Thats right but the 4.7uF are sold out.

Don't just order online, give Lee a call and talk to him. He's a decent bloke!

Voltages are fine tho!
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Old 14th February 2011, 01:36 PM   #13
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I upgraded crossover components and went outboard with a pair of Energy 22 Reference Connoisseur speakers. I changed the existing polypropylene caps to Auricaps and there was a definite improvement, more air, detail and smoothness. I preferred the sound of Auricaps vs Solen, Hovland and a couple of others. I didn't try Mundorf. Some people recommend bypass caps. IME, bypassing works only in a shunt position (i.e. to bypass the driver, as in the woofer zobel). If you use parallel caps in series with the driver, you end up with sibilance.

The biggest bang I got was replacing the ferrite-cored woofer inductor with a Solen Hepta-Litz. Bass got much tighter, cleaner and more dynamic, which gave music a bouncier, more involving beat. I tried a ribbon inductor (Alpha-Core) and much preferred the Hepta-Litz. Select the Hepta-Litz gauge based on the DCR of your existing inductor. I didn't bother to replace the smaller air-cored inductors, just the ferrite core on the woofer.
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Last edited by audiobomber; 14th February 2011 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 14th February 2011, 02:01 PM   #14
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Moving the crossover out of the cabinet and its vibration may have a bigger effect than changing components. There's nothing really nasty like electrolytics
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Old 14th February 2011, 04:25 PM   #15
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Cool I can't wait to have a play with this, got to find out what my existing inductors are rated at. Shame a multimeter can't do the job...
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Old 14th February 2011, 06:21 PM   #16
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Just to note the Silver 9i are a 2.5 way design, not a three way. It makes little difference with regards to your crossover upgrade, but at somepoint in the future should you decide to be more adventurous at least you know.

I had a pair and they were fantastic for a commercial product, they got great reviews from owners, as well as the magazines. The Amish 45/97 that replace them are better, but it showed how good the MAs were when you consider they were £1000 new and there is £500 worth of drivers in the Amish.

Best of luck and I hope you get some good results.

Oh and you can get multimeters that will measure inductance.

Last edited by ianpengelly; 14th February 2011 at 06:22 PM. Reason: added text
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Old 14th February 2011, 08:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianpengelly View Post
Just to note the Silver 9i are a 2.5 way design, not a three way. It makes little difference with regards to your crossover upgrade, but at somepoint in the future should you decide to be more adventurous at least you know.

I had a pair and they were fantastic for a commercial product, they got great reviews from owners, as well as the magazines. The Amish 45/97 that replace them are better, but it showed how good the MAs were when you consider they were £1000 new and there is £500 worth of drivers in the Amish.

Best of luck and I hope you get some good results.

Oh and you can get multimeters that will measure inductance.

How do you mean 2.5 way design? I have made an electrical diagram of the cross over. The low range speaker is kept seperate from the mid and tweeter with just a coil allowing the low freq on the lower inputs. The mid and tweeter are driven by the upper inputs and both have their seperate circuits of coils and caps?

I can't wait until I start making the crossover
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Old 14th February 2011, 10:32 PM   #18
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I've used Mundorf supremes a few times for upgrading speaker crossovers and every time i've used one in series with a tweeter, I've had to pad the tweeter down because it was too loud. I find an extra 1R (I use Mills resistors) in series, is about right YMMV.
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Old 14th February 2011, 10:50 PM   #19
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Default Topology vs. Parts

IMHO if you want to modify the crossovers it should be in design rather than replacement of components. I don't know if there is a possibility of improving the design of the crossover that will actually improve the sound quality of the speakers - all depends on what's there to begin with - but if there's room for improvement that's where it will be.
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Old 15th February 2011, 11:57 AM   #20
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Cant agree with the above unless you completely understand what you are doing at a theory level then have special measurement and analysing equipment. I'm sure you could improve the std xover design but I'm also sure you'd be in a world of pain too!

The original xovers would have been designed to do a specific job which undoubtedly they do. The compnents would have been chosen based on cost.

imho, just upgrading cheap non audio focussed components for audio grade equiv parts will give large benifits without doing an electronic engineering / sound engineering degree!!!!
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