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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: tehran
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Hi to all
I have : kenwood kfc-w3010 subwoofer 4ohm 200watt 28hz-700hz nokia 6.5"woofer 8Ohm 35watt 67hz to 3khz philipa ad 163 t8 tweeter with 6.8ohm 20 watt 1khz-18khz I want build a 3way x-over with 12db for woofer at 130 hz and 6db at 130-2khz for midrange and 18db at 2khz -18khz for tweeter is it good?whitch kind of crossover i should use? and can some body tell me are these units work with eachother ? and if not what should i do? sorry for my Englisg |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sudbury, Ontario Canada
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I can't help with your crossover either, but I can give you some advice. I suspect the reason no one has offered to help is because from your first post it is obvious that you have a great deal to learn about Thiele-Small parameters, baffle-step correction, polar response, acoustic vs electrical slope and many, many other issues before you even get started.
I suggest you look for a copy of Vance Dickason's "Loudspeaker Cookbook", it has been translated into several languages. After you have read it, you will understand that crossover design is a lot more complex than you realize. If you don't care to learn about proper design and you just want to go ahead and build, you can use this calculator to calculate the slopes you've specified. Crossover Design Calculators.
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Dan |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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You need to provide more information, do you have speaker parameters and/or frequency response and impedance graphs? If not, you'll need to measure them.
Why did you choose those crossover frequencies? re:'are these units work with eachother ? - as long as the Kenwoods have equal or higher efficiency than the Nokias, yes...
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#4 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Posts dealing with nationality have been removed. We are all of the audio world here, there are no countries. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: tehran
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thank you my friends
i know alittle about t/s parameter kfc-w3010 has full t/s parameter but the others dont have! my philips tweeter was made in 1975 and it is not second hand.all thing who i know is:it is soft fabric dome and 8 ohm impedance and its frequncy respon is 1khz to 18khs and its fs is 1khz. but about nokia just i know it is 6.5" and 35 watt and 8 ohm.i build a 1.5 cubic feet ported box for kfc-w3010 and a 0.5 cubic feet for nokia and it is closed box.i make a 18db x-over at 2700hz for may philips and just a capacitor for nokia and kenwood withiut any crossover.the bass is good and deep but singer voice can be heard from my subwoofer.in mid and high freq singer voice is not enough clear! so tell me what can i do? i want 130 hz cut off for woofer to remove singer voice of it.and 2000 hz for tweeter to have alittel clear singer voice. so please give me some advice. sorry for my english. so i want to make a good x-over for my spaekers. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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the tweeter can be crossed over down to 2KHz, do you have a L-Pad on the tweeter?
What size capacitor are you using for the Nokia and Kenwood, and how is it connected? (I'd expect an Inductor, not a cap) (the problem may be that the nokia isn't as efficent as the other two drivers...)
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: tehran
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i dont have any l-pad on the tweeter.
kenwood doesnt have any inductor and capacitor, but nokia has a 28mf capacitor. is it better to change nokia with another one? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Well, if the tweeter & Kenwood are much more efficient than the Nokia, you'll get the kind of sound you're describing. I'd start by adding a L pad to the tweeter, but if you don't know the relative efficiencies of the drivers, it's all guesswork.
It's really easy to measure drivers: Download ARTA: ARTA ARTA Download, Make this simple jig: ARTA Jig - AudioBlog: A simple loudspeaker measurement jig for ARTA
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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