B&W Capacitor Replacement- Need Help

[Ckyguy68]

Hello everyone

My father gave me a pair of B&W P-4s a few years ago. They have been great to me until recently the tweeter stopped working in one of the speakers. I am somewhat tech-savvy (I mainly work on cars) so I opened up the back and used a multi meter to narrow the problem to a faulty capacitor. I was reading a previous thread about replacing the capacitors and I really don't know what to do here. Order a replacement or upgrade to increase my sound quality?

The capacitor reads:

BENNIC
Bi-Polar
10 MFD
70 WV

I appreciate any help. Thank you.

[planet10]

With a 10 uF cap, you should look to replace both with poly caps. If there are any other caps in the tweetr leg of the XO, i'd put poly in there too.

Post a picture?

dave

[Ckyguy68]

I thought I had it narrowed down to a capacitor based on continuity but I noticed that the other capacitor doesn't have continuity either and that speaker works...

There is NOT continuity between the terminals and the wire that goes to the speaker though. The red one to be specific. So it is something in this board. Any ideas here?

[speakerdoctor]

You don't have continuity thru a capacitor like you do thru resistors and coils. In order to check caps, you need an ESR and/or an LCR meter.

[john dozier]

Check the resistance of the tweeter voice coil.Do this on both the working and non working tweeter. They should be the same If not, you will need a replacement diaphragm for the bad tweeter. Hope this helps

[Ckyguy68]

I don't think the issue lies in the tweeter. I don't have continuity between the terminals and the speaker wire for the bad tweeter but I DO have continuity for the rest of them. See this pic. The problem has to lie somewhere on the board.

[DigitalJunkie]

The capacitor is likely to be in series with the positive tweeter wire,Normally you won't have continuity there because capacitors do not have continuity between the leads (at DC anyway).
The caps are probably okay,but it couldn't hurt to replace them with some film caps or something,as Dave mentioned.

Test the tweeter voice coil with your DMM,and make sure it isn't an open circuit,if it is,it's toasted.

[Speedskater]

If your DMM has a low voltage AC range, use some high frequency test tones and measure both the good and bad channel.

[harryglan]

All the crossover does is let the right band of audio frequencies get to the tweeter. You can test the speaker by driving it direct from your amp. Keep the volume very low. It's unlikely the fault is in the crosover.

[Ckyguy68]

Originally Posted by harryglan

All the crossover does is let the right band of audio frequencies get to the tweeter. You can test the speaker by driving it direct from your amp. Keep the volume very low. It's unlikely the fault is in the crosover.

Did the test. Looks like I have a bad tweeter

So how should I go about finding one and replacing it? I haven't torn into a $300 speaker before and I'm a little nervous about this.