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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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i have a pair of Audax drivers im thinking of trying to design an MLTL for, and i just wanted to pick the brains of anyone who can help.
ts parameters: Fs 64 vas 4.7 litres Qts 0.49 Qms 2.16 Qes 0.63 BL 4 NA Sd 50.5 cm² im considering 'trying' to make a bookshelf type, i.e. small as possible, and perhaps folded as well. I was just slightly unsure whether the Qts of 0.49 was too high for an MLTL; or conversely whether the fairly high Q would be ideal to squeeze some more LF out of this driver. thanks for taking the time to read, and for any advice in advance.
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Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. Last edited by mondogenerator; 20th January 2011 at 04:13 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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unless im mistaken there are no alignment table posted for the MLTL, as there are for the TQWP. UNfortunately, mathcad isnt exactly my forte...
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Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Give me the values for Re and Le and I'll see what I can model for you in an ML-TL. How "small" must this cabinet be? Do you already have in mind height and width?
Paul Quote:
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
Why do you hide the driver Brand identification numbers? Are your T/S # measured or the manufacturers? need some classic tl advice See the consequence when using your data:first picture: Wild guess: See the second picture. b |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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ah yes a slight oversight on my part i see. specs are manufacturers data, and ive seen some on both zaph and hennessys' sites, which maybe are more accurate.
quoted VC inductance is 0.45mH DCR 6Ohm LOL @ Bjorno: yes easy to guess really! Ive had them lying around for ages. they could be a rapid build easy sealed or vented design, but im toying with other ideas I have seen some things with small fr drivers in 'bookshelf' MLTLs which looked ok, but havent been able to model one. Abandoned the idea of a TQWP a while ago, due to size. I figured, (i think), in the most basic way; the way i designed my last QWP, i ended up using a 20:1 taper. i did model it further, with higher ratios, but i settled at 20:1 for the minimum port area i was prepared to accept. essentially youre doing the same as early reflex designs that used just a simple port hole and a large Vb. PKITT i think you helped me with that project! So thanks again for the help. size wise....hmm. depth im not bothered about really, so HxWxD id say: 12"- 15" x 6"- 8" x 12"- 15" ballpark ideas really. it will either be going with an TM025F1 or tangband W2-800SL and xovers to suit whichever. when i figure out a tapped horn on Hornresp im going to see what i can model in a similar size crossed to the tangband around 300Hz. it may be a ridiculous idea though... i envision maybe a folded MLTL, 2,3, or 4 folds, but with a taper. However, with a net taper of zero over the first 2 or 3 sections, depending on how many folds may suit. eg in 3 fold design, 3:1 in the 1st section, 1:3 in the 2nd, and 3:1 again in the last. perhaps even just a straight untapered last section, im unsure. just an idea, no idea if its a good one! lowest vent area with that driver? maybe 2 in²?
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Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. Last edited by mondogenerator; 21st January 2011 at 08:26 AM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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Hennessy quotes some of the AP100ZO ts parameters after 30 hours run in. these have had loads of run in, but i havent gotten around to measuring anything myself yet. (cheap DMM, and with a desire for accuracy, the necessary calibration curve beforehand.........)
Fs = 60.9 Qms = 1.60 Qes = 0.63 Qts = 0.45 Vas = 4.36
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Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Well, a T/S max flat alignment is ~ 6.3 L/55 Hz Fb, so converting it to a MLTL nets us a slightly lower 51-52 Hz Fb due to 1/4 WL vent loading (all dims approximate):
L = 27.54" WxD = 13.96"^2 zdriver = 9.256" zport = 26" dport = 0.75" dia Lport = 1" Fold into an inverted 'U', which puts the driver up near the top and the vent down near the bottom and since this is a max flat alignment you may want to try longer vents to roll it off if too 'boomy'. That or use more damping. Sim is minimally damped. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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thanks GM, thats quite compact, i am, to be honest, surprised. theres only one thing that would concern me a little, the vent area. assuming i can up the vent area and length appropriately and in a similar way to reflex ports, then perhaps ill up the vent area a little.
cheers for the input, i think this project may definitely be worth persueing
__________________
Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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You're welcome!
With a 30 W rating and TL vent loading, the vent doesn't have to be as big as in a simple reflex or ducted port. Regardless, at a glance it looks like there's not enough room to increase vent length much, so tuning any lower won't be an option if you start with a bigger/longer one. All you can do then is add stuffing which at some point may start 'muffling' the driver's HF output. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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true enough. ive had these drivers running fairly loud sealed and vented, and they really probably cant tolerate much more than 10 watts in either alignment, and the mids suffer a little nasal sound when driven hard, so in all likelihood, and when i think about how im going to be using the speakers, the port area probably isnt a huge concern. bonus is i can use 1" timber for the panel and just drill the port with a ¾" spade bit.
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Its a case of Perception:You never stop being a 'Noob' (a term banned on many social gaming sites), Ego is the Thing that tells Us otherwise. |
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