efficient and simple 2 way

[rg24]

So I have the CSS ERT26 tweeter and the Tang Band W6-789E 6.5 woofer, both are efficient. I am looking for thoughts on a simple crossover design? Any help would be great!

Please see attached pics for specs.

 

[rg24]

would something like 6db on the woofer and 12db on the tweeter @3k work? I am going to use a 1 cu.ft. enclosure with a 8.5" wide baffle tuned to around 45 HZ.

I just dont have much knowledge on x-overs?

 

[tinitus]

this xo will work

 

[rg24]

tinitus:

Thanks for the help!
Do you have thoughts on the values of the components shown in the last post?

 

[tinitus]

Do you have thoughts on the values of the components shown in the last post?

hmmm, not so easy without measurements, or listening

for one theres drivers own frequency response
drivers varying impedance result in different component function
tweeter low resonance peak plays a role too
and theres the "BSC"
it means that you have a loss in midbass
its where a voice gets its volume, and thus very important

but usually the midrange series inductor needs to be bigger than the calculated
you could try something like 0.5-0.8mH
paralel cap and resistor could be anything
maybe try 5.2-12uf
resistor, maybe 5.7-10ohm
all those will influence each other

tweeter series cap could be like 4.7-6.8uf
paralel inductor could be a tricky one
maybe from 0.2mH-0.4mH
resistor may not be needed, but try smal valaues from 2.2-5.7ohm

attenuation resistors
you might get away with just a series resistor
but a changed impedance will have influence on xo function

but you need to build a test xo where you can easily change components
do your layout exactly like in the shown schematic
start with cheap components
and please, dont short anything, it could burn your amp


well, you could try and start with just a series inductor on midrange, and a small series cap on tweeter, with a series resistor
maybe you will like it, for a while

 

[chlorofille]

Tinitus,

That is the exact way I "voice" the crossover for my speakers. (scan-speak based)

 

[Inductor]

The tweeter looks so bad I would start with a 6dB filter/xover at 4/5K and go from there. 8Ohm, L=0.3mH/C=5uF. I would test a bigger coil, and probably give the woofer better attenuation, one way or the other.

 

[rg24]

Thanks Tinitus, this will give me a great start!

Inductor: What do you mean this "tweeter looks so bad" do you think I made a bad choice on selection? I chose it because of the price range the
Vifa D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter and Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter are both in my price range and easily available, so would one of them be a better choice?

RG

 

[rg24]

Thanks Tinitus, this will give me a great start!

Inductor: What do you mean this "tweeter looks so bad" do you think I made a bad choice on selection? I chose it because of the price range the
Vifa D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter and Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter are both in my price range and easily available, so would one of them be a better choice?

RG

 

[chlorofille]

I'd go with the Dayton tweeter. It should mate better with the 6.5'' midwoofer and can be crossed over lower (2300Hz or so). 3/4'' domes need to be crossed higher and then you will run into cone break up problems with the midwoofer.

 

[Boden]

Dear RG,

Although you get some friendly answers on your request, unfortunately none of them hit the nail on the head. Trial and error is not going to produce a good x/o. Speaker x/o is a little more complex than assumed here.

You must measure the chosen drivers in the box you are going to use. Manufacturers sheets are not usuable, in that the speakers usually are not measured in a box, but on an IEC baffle, yielding rather different and much smoother SPL curves. The so called Baffle Step is not present in IEC baffle measurements; neither are all sorts of diffraction effects, that must be taken into consideration, when designing a x/o. Furthermore, TB is notoriously known for its highly optimistic graphs.

My advice: download a free lsp measurement program, such as ARTA or Holmimpulse and import your measured curves (so called .FRD and .ZMA file) into either Boxsim or Speaker Workshop.The learning process will be hard in the beginning, but once you' ve mastered this, you will be able to design almost any system and x/o you like.

Good luck,

Eelco de Bode

 

[rg24]

Maybe I will purchase those as well and use the best of the lot.

I plan to make my first attempt using passive crossover designer and zma and frd files that I have downloaded of both drivers. What is a good crossover point to start with?

 

[Boden]

Dear RG,

With the Dayton, 2.2 kHz (or even 2kHz) will be fine, provided you apply acoustic 4th order LR. Often a relatively simple electric 2th order x/o will, combined with the drivers own roll off, produce a nice acoustic LR 4 with just a few components. But then again, optimum results can only be obtained by measurement and proper simulations in an x/o program.

Kind Regards,

Eelco

 

[rg24]

Unfortunately I only have a mac so I think I will just guess on the components-how bad could it be?

 

[tinitus]

hmm, its said about children they should better crawl for a while, before walking
good for learning, they say

no pun intended

well, no matter what, all the hardware in the world wont make a speaker by itself
need to learn about speakers first

you could start with studying the great speaker man Troels Gravesen http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm