Hey Wayne, thanks for the reply.
My listening room is 14x17 feet (11 feet high). I play the short wall. With the speakers in the corners of the short wall that would put the cross at 7' away. Much closer than I like to sit to the A5 monsters.
I guess that I could play the long wall and sit about 10 feet back. I'm not keen on turning the room that way, but perhaps should give it a try.
My listening room is 14x17 feet (11 feet high). I play the short wall. With the speakers in the corners of the short wall that would put the cross at 7' away. Much closer than I like to sit to the A5 monsters.
I guess that I could play the long wall and sit about 10 feet back. I'm not keen on turning the room that way, but perhaps should give it a try.
it's mine! I'll read Waynes answers to your questions
.. and praeps wait for your try
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Actually, those are perfect room dimensions. I'd put the speakers along the short wall, because that's where they work best in this configuration.
You don't have to sit where the axes cross, or even immediately beyond it. One of the best things about constant directivity cornerhorns is they provide a very wide "sweet spot". Sitting a few feet back from the axes-crossing point is perfect.
One thing though, they do have to be constant directivity, or very close to it. If directivity isn't constant, then coverage isn't uniform and spectral balance is off in some places throughout the room. This also makes imaging suffer, because with non-CD speakers, you're back to the single-point problem, where there's only one place things sound really good.
You don't have to sit where the axes cross, or even immediately beyond it. One of the best things about constant directivity cornerhorns is they provide a very wide "sweet spot". Sitting a few feet back from the axes-crossing point is perfect.
One thing though, they do have to be constant directivity, or very close to it. If directivity isn't constant, then coverage isn't uniform and spectral balance is off in some places throughout the room. This also makes imaging suffer, because with non-CD speakers, you're back to the single-point problem, where there's only one place things sound really good.
Thanks Wayne, I'll give it a try and let you know what I think.
Will try 45º and ~60º toe in to compare. Now that I have sound treatment in the room, it's sounding pretty good.
My Listening Room
Will try 45º and ~60º toe in to compare. Now that I have sound treatment in the room, it's sounding pretty good.
My Listening Room
You'll be bringing the speakers inboard from the corners then, won't you? I mean, I love the cornerhorn configuration but it does require that the speakers be built for that purpose. The sound sources have to be acoustically close to the corner (within 1/4λ) or they have to be directional enough to limit sidewall reflections.
If you put a more traditional "box" speaker in the corner it's too far from the corner to couple and the midrange is adversely affected. Male voices and instruments often sound congested, sort of a "singing in the bathroom" sound. Open baffles are even more sensitive, since the backwave is so strong and in reverse phase. I'm sure open baffle guys pull their speakers out away from walls as far as possible, well out into the room.
So the bottom line is, if you're really interested in trying out a constant directivity cornerhorn, you'll have to build a speaker with that purpose in mind. The woofer has to be close to the corner, and the midrange should be too. I also find it best that the midrange be horn loaded, with a 90˚ flare to match the woofer pattern. At the low end of the midrange passband (if made low enough), the corner still offers some directivity and at the high end, the horn sets the pattern. When done properly, the system provides constant directivity from the Schroeder frequency up, through the entire audio band.
If you put a more traditional "box" speaker in the corner it's too far from the corner to couple and the midrange is adversely affected. Male voices and instruments often sound congested, sort of a "singing in the bathroom" sound. Open baffles are even more sensitive, since the backwave is so strong and in reverse phase. I'm sure open baffle guys pull their speakers out away from walls as far as possible, well out into the room.
So the bottom line is, if you're really interested in trying out a constant directivity cornerhorn, you'll have to build a speaker with that purpose in mind. The woofer has to be close to the corner, and the midrange should be too. I also find it best that the midrange be horn loaded, with a 90˚ flare to match the woofer pattern. At the low end of the midrange passband (if made low enough), the corner still offers some directivity and at the high end, the horn sets the pattern. When done properly, the system provides constant directivity from the Schroeder frequency up, through the entire audio band.
They already are.
I have thought about putting wings on the boxes and putting them in the corners. I might have a chance to next week. I'll let you know how it goes.
A few years back when I worked the Montreal audio show, a local guy had built some single driver corner horns of a strange configuration. But they worked really well, even though they were too far apart. Will see if I can find a photo.
Could not find any photos of my own, but here are some off the web
Made by First Octave Audio of Canada (Andrew Vanderkruk). The Angelica corner horn. As you can see, they use the corner as an up firing horn.
Don't know how constant directivity they are, but they did image well.
I believe that Andrew also made a version with the Altec 604.
Made by First Octave Audio of Canada (Andrew Vanderkruk). The Angelica corner horn. As you can see, they use the corner as an up firing horn.
Don't know how constant directivity they are, but they did image well.
I believe that Andrew also made a version with the Altec 604.
Attachments
toeing in working with nonconstant directivity, too. even in noncorner placement. partially 
.. (I experimented at my previous flat)
recently my dcx was on Christmas vacation - PSU died
. I hooked my old fostex fe-207 instead of the driver in 1st order 1.5-way. These were not the best days (I could not drink enough coconut water.).. after the holidays dcx was repaired and I tested fe-207s normally crossed; anyway, I did not like it compared radians ..
imo some better FR are more suitable for relativly expensive\complex enclosures..
.. (I experimented at my previous flat)recently my dcx was on Christmas vacation - PSU died
. I hooked my old fostex fe-207 instead of the driver in 1st order 1.5-way. These were not the best days (I could not drink enough coconut water.).. after the holidays dcx was repaired and I tested fe-207s normally crossed; anyway, I did not like it compared radians ..imo some better FR are more suitable for relativly expensive\complex enclosures..
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No, only for the midhorn. It has some angle cuts that are maybe kinda tricky. The rest of the cabinet is easy to cut. Plans are available just for the asking.
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