|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Hey all,
I just wanted to share the info with you and get your opinions. I want a set of LA's I have for some time now. I didn't want an LA with wideband drivers and I didn't want a super cheap LA using real cheap drivers. I wanted something I could build and keep in my home for the rest of my life.. (Tall Order, I know..) So I had surfed the net and checked out all of the various LA kits offered by some of the established DIY companies. The prices were reasonable but more than I wanted to spend I guess. Then I began talking with John Janowitz and Stryke Audio. John had been playing with LA's for a while and had a Di Pole pair using his RTW2 Ribbon Tweeter and his SA071 Midranges. I guess I pushed the right buttons because soon therafter be began work on the BiPole LA's using the same drivers. Right now he is in the design phase of the sealed and vented setup. I am sold! I am ordering the drivers shortly and I am also going to have John CNC Route the Baffels for me on his wicked CNC Router and ship them. I could do the baffels but 48 holes is nuts to do by hand ![]() Check out the whole build process at John's forums: http://forum.stryke.com/viewtopic.ph...b8ed564a0f1f3c What do you think? I think they are going to be one neat project
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Absolutly beautiful workmanship!
I hope when you build them - they sound as good a they look! Gaz |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North London
|
It seems to be a well thought out design and it's probably a good idea to get the baffles CNC routed.
I'll bet it's going to sound great and, if you can make it look as good as it sounds, you'll have a fabulous pair of speakers. The only problem is that if you keep them for ever you won't build new speakers. What will you do for aggravation?
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tennessee
|
Brett,
I know you are anxious to start building a line array but I caution you to wait and hear John's array or any other that you might consider. While the Stryke Audio array may be the right choice for you, there is a lot more to an array than just building the enclosure. The overall soundness of the concept, the quality of the drivers, and especially the crossover implementation will make the sound that you hear a pleasant experience or not. After all of the trouble to build an array--especially one as complex as John's array--you really will want to yield an exceptional sounding result for your efforts. Bottom line: It would be worth the trip so that you could hear any array that you would consider building. Jim |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
|
Here's another crazy idea. You can build or buy a system
like that.. which I consider entry level line array.. You may love it, if not you can always sell it and scale up again and try other designs.
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Rarkov,
Yep I just hope I can finish them good enough to do the quality of the enclosures justice. 7V, Keeping them forever is one thing.. But that's not to say I won't build something else also It's always a good idea to have asmany sets of speakers as you can fit in the house ![]() The CNC Baffels are certainly the way to go. It's not that I can't do the baffels my self but when you are doing 48 holes the risk of a screw up is too great.. One slip and a whole baffel is junk. I will stick with the CNC'd baffels because they are perfect from piece to piece no major variances. I am confident they will sound better than they look ![]() Jim, I appreciate your concern but I am sure the sound will be to my liking. If I was spending 2K to build these I would think more about going to audition them.. They are going to cost $1000.00 for all the drivers and CNC Routed Baffels and the XO parts won't be too bad (depends on what parts I use..) I know the drivers are quality units. If they wern't you wouldn't use the tweeters in your Linus would you??? The Mids are every bit as good as the Ribbons. As far as Crossover John knows what he's doing and he has the right tools to do the measurements. He will be testing and measuring the final results at 1M 3M 6M etc.. On and Off Axis. I have dealt with John for a while now and he's never let me down on any product I have purchased. He is truly a DIY'r like the rest of us and this is as much his project as anyone's.. He's wanted to do a set of Bipole LA's for quite some time now.. He's also had DiPole LA's using the same drivers, in his room for the past year or so. I am sure that I will be pleased and I appreciate your good advice. thylantyr, Starting off small is great advice for anyone.. I am not one to start off with a smaller project though, always been that way! ![]() If for some chance they didn't "do it" for me I am certain I could sell them if I choose to do that. It's highly unlikely that will happen though. Thank you all for your comments! Keep them comming
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Finishing
I would like to hear everybody's finishing ideas.. I like the "tech" modern look and was considering finishing of the back and sides in WilsonArt Piano Black and doing the baffel in WilsonArt Metalinates "Brushed" Aluminum. The bases will be finished in WilsonArt Rose Granite. |
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
|
Quote:
My speaker project has been in the werks for 3 years -- due to lack of funds -- but it's a crazy idea .. My thoughs on finishing the beast was also a piano black finish with 1/4" thick aluminum "faceplate" that is chromed -- that slaps on the front baffle with rear mounted grill cloth (rear of faceplate) -- to be sorta different. A crazy vision I have. I collected unsorted data on how to accomplish the piano black finish, but I haven't sorted thru the mess and made any sense of it... I get so many mixed opinions depending on level of complexity. You have some people who just primer the MDF, focus on sealing the edges (ranging from watered down yellow glue to other ideas) and just use canned spray paint. This is the typical DIY response. Plus various levels of sanding... Then you have the woodworker who wants to use HVLP and exotic paints and exotic recipes and 100 different grits of sanding. Then you have the car audio fabricators who build systems all day as a career, keep in mind building boxes that have to stand up to temperature variations and they prefer to use automotive paints/primers.. primer a few coats in the morning, spray gun in the afternoon... done... Wet sanding included in the process. The unexperienced car audio fabricator will try to coat the MDF with fiberglas or Bondo thinking that this step is needed, but apparently it isn't... Then you have the person who hates all these methods because over time, the MDF breathes and the finish starts to crack -- the trick is to completely seal the MDF prior to paint and this process involves esoteric ideas that may be toxic - hehe Jeff Jewitt send me a recipe for my desired finish using products on his website. http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ I think what needs to be done is.... cut some scrap pieces and spend a month experimenting with different recipes to see for yourself... I think I might just get some car paint primer, maybe even a spray can.. apply, sand, apply sand ... repeat until you have the results you want -- then send out the box to the auto paint shop -- because no matter how careful you are, the thing that kills you is the dust that falls on the cool paint job - ruined.... |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Finishing with paints is not a problem I have many years working
with Laquers and Enamels so if I were to spray them I would get myself some good old fashioned Laquer or a good Base Coat Clear Coat. But I am thinking of using WilsonArt's "Piano Black" Laminate. It is a high gloss black thin laminate used on cabinetry and counters and such. It should wrap around the rounded edges with no problem and cutting the material is fairly straight forward. I am not set in stone on any finish though and I may change my mind a million times before I get to the building stage. I really appreciate the link and information! Burled Oak would be nice too.. I am not real big on "wood" and the wood's I like are all Figured or Burls or Exotics.... $$$$$$$$ |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Proven DIY Line Array Design? | Ren | Multi-Way | 40 | 3rd June 2011 11:29 PM |
| Mid-Bass line array – Design & Driver Q’s | JonFo | Multi-Way | 1 | 7th August 2007 12:17 PM |
| open baffle neo3 neo8 line array design | Ang | Multi-Way | 2 | 10th January 2007 01:23 AM |
| Moved: Driver choice (Belgium) and LF design considerations for 50€ Line Array | Cordraconis | Full Range | 4 | 1st April 2005 02:52 PM |
| Line Array / multiple driver crossover design | awdtalon92 | Multi-Way | 2 | 26th March 2004 07:49 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |