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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver
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I've got a buddy who is willing to make me up some cabinets for some speakers using MDF or any other wood for that matter. I wont be using a sub-woofer with these speakers, I believe a 3-way will work better then a 2-way in this application.
As for the projects I have looked at, these seem to be my primary focus. Hypnos Zaph|Audio - Bargain Aluminum MTM Parts Express DIY Project I would like some recommendation as to which i should build as a speaker project having hardly any background in speakers. Thanks! Kurt |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Start with a 2-way, then progress to 2.5way then do a 3-way if you want to avoid lots of tweaking and rebuilding
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#3 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Alpheus BTW Zaph's MTM is a 2 way. His 3 way (or 3.5way) is this one Zaph|Audio - ZDT3.5 So is the Part's express project you linked. 3 Drivers do not mean 3 way. All 3 of the designs you have linked are large bookshelf designs. From this I assume you are not considering floor standing speakers. If thisis your limitation then the designs you ahve chosen are quite nice. Of the lot I'd consider the one at Zaphaudio. The other alternative is to design one from scratch. The Dayton and Peerless 8" woofers for example can go high enough to be crossoved over to their 1" dome tweeters and you can get a large MTM using 2 8" woofers.
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...still looking for the holy grail. Last edited by navin; 4th January 2011 at 06:37 AM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver
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Ah, so two of the designs i posted are in fact two ways, that makes sense. But i don't understand is why there are two speakers for the same application... since both the speakers are in phase with each other, wouldn't they interfere with each other? I can understand the advantage between a two way and a three way... but not the advantage between a 2.5 way and a 2 way.
I'm just a little puzzled now as to weather i should attempt a 3-way, 2.5-way or a 2-way. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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double the speaker area increase in volume (SPL ) double the voice coil and you double the ability to handle power.
Designing a 2-way is easier as you only have one crossover point and no reaction between XO components at 2 places in the audio spectrum. 2.5 way gives a bass boost and relieves the top mid-bass driver of some on the low frequency sound which improves the clarity of midrange reproduction and also increases power handling. 2.5 way speakers are usually TMM/TWW speakers, I am working on one at the moment Bedroom music Need to build small speakers
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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However, the MTM configuration has another nice benefit. The two midranges will indeed "interfere with each other". But in a good way. They will add constructively along the horizontal plane, which is where ideally the listener will be sitting. In addition, since they are sitting symmetrical w.r.t. the tweeter, no strange radiation patterns are to be expected in the crossover region. I would say this is especially nice if you are a beginner. The only thing you need to do, is get the delay of the tweeter right, and the sound will be right "on the money". In other configurations, this exercise might take considerably more time. You might want to read about this guy. -- Greetz, MatchASM |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Didn't want to increase the confusion by introducing too many concepts at once , i build a lot of speakers that use MTM configuration, I try and keep the midrange driver 5inchs/135mm or smaller tho i have one set here that uses 8inch mids you can only listen in the sweet dspot
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver
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The speakers will be placed close to walls, they may replace my Z4's if i can make space for them, which wont be too hard. From what i find comfortable with, they'll most likely never be played over 90db, depending if I'm half a meter away or a couple meters away. I'd like to limit to bookshelve speakers, i don't have room for floor standing speakers. as for width and length, anything <40cm should be fine, anything larger then that would require additional accommodations, which shouldn't be too hard. I've never dealt with any expensive speakers before, a set of paradigms and a pair of mission speakers (Which i quite enjoy, but they lack a little in the midrange). As for my overall expectations, I'd like something that has a fairly flat response and rival what I've (hardly) heard. Researching these terms you used Moondog55! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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We really need a glossary in the Wiki , I'd start it but wonder if I would ever finish it, what terms need explaining??
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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