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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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I am trying to gather information and thoughts from experienced people about building my own dipole speakers.
I have done a lot of research (A LOT!) and I do believe that making my own dipole speakers (often called open or infinite baffles I believe, but please correct me if I'm wrong!) would be best for my use, budget, and as a first DIY project in this field. I'm pretty handy and am a music lover. My dad and uncle are audiophiles and have made their own speakers when they were my age. Well, I'd like to do better and nicer! I know it might sound weird but I want to make the "open enclosure" in plexiglass. I do know that the sound quality will decrease considerably but I'm ready to pay this price. As much as I love music, I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of that sound quality in order to make this project happen. I am looking to make two towers, each with respectively 1 12" woofers, 1 8" mid-range, and 1 4" tweeter. This are all used Technics components from my current stereo. Since I am on a tight budget (but am definitely willing to spend the time; and some money) I will use what I have in stock! Another reason why I am going with dipole speakers is that I wouldn't have to worry about the enclosure volume, and would really like to use these speakers as a piece of art of my own (this sounds cheesy but this is something big for me as I want to make these prefect!). I am also planning on incorporating 1 subwoofer unit made of two 16" speakers. Now, this being said, I have a few questions, and any comments or ideas are more than welcome! - Fiberglass thickness: I was thinking 3/4" or 1". Thoughts on that? I am leaning toward the 1" because of vibrations issues and overall look. - Subwoofer: I am undecided between making one unit with the two 16", or two separate units. Or incorporate the subwoofers to the towers? Well, I guess that's all I had to ask, please feel free to comment or advice me on issues I might encounter! Thanks a lot. Enzo" |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Hi Enzo.
I've made a baffle with plexiglass (25mm or 1" thick- very expensive)! I discovered that it is too flexible, even at that thickness, to resist the vibrations of a woofer. I mounted the woofer on a sub-baffle that didn't touch (which I think is a good idea anyway for a flat baffle). I have seen a picture of a Supravox mounted on plexiglass, but it was reinforced by- wood? Regards, David |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Sounds great! (Looks great)
I made open baffle speakers using 1/2 inch plexiglass actually LEXAN. I made H frame woofers according to MJK's articles found here in the diy audio site (full range forum). I made four sets of those. One in solid maple for my daughter, two out of MDF for my brother and my friend, and one for myself out of maple plywood. For the full range speakers, Three were made out of Lexan. Just for the two full range speakers (open baffle) (one piece) 2' X 2' it was almost $80 per pair! It worked out well (is a inherently damped material). I used a drill bit that I filed down so that the angle of the tip was flatter. This causes the bit to not dig as quickly, and reduces the likelihood that the plastic will crack while drilling. If you want to glue pieces together, you could try acetone. It will "disolve" the plastic, then clamp them together, and "voila". If it migrates much, it might make the surface hazy. Give it a try on spare pieces first. To attach the drivers, I drilled holes through the plastic, and used bolts, you could try this for attaching the side pieces to each other also. good luck, I think it will be quite expensive. Hope this helps, Paul |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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ps.
I got some scratches in mine while working on them, especially cutting out the hole for the driver. Get some auto polish, and some polishing pads from your optometrist (used for fabricating eyeglasses. Apply the polishing pads to a block of wood apply polish liberally, and rub! Paul |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
thanks for the advice! |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
Thanks a lot for sharing! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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pforeman, Thanks a lot for sharing.
I was going to use acetone along with nice stainless steel screws. The H frame is what I had in mind too but I am trying to think of something a little more original and less common, but that's definitely what I'll do if I don't come up with a good idea! And for the plexiglass, the company I work for uses plexiglass to manufacture its products so I'm hoping to get a sweet deal...! If not, I'll have to go with some exotic wood or something similar. Thanks again! Enzo |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Plexiglass has some excellent properies, but you need a milling machine to produce a baffle. Very likely companies that produce illuminated signs can make parts for you. Make a drawing in a CAD program or in Corel Draw, save it as vector file and solicit a quotation.
An excellent glue is ACRIFIX® When choosing a glue, get proper advice from the seller. There are different glues for extruded and for cast material. If you don't get the right glue, your piece will suffer from a lot of cracks. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Eburg
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Lexan is the brand name for polycarbonate, not PMMA(acril\plexiglass)
had you glued PC with acetone
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