Leak 600's - Made in Australia...

[MTP]

Hi there audio fans,

My favourite leak 600's are finally showing their age and having troubles with the crossovers (i think).

One is not really producing any low range at all (intermittent) and the other has no low/mid response whatsoever.

I got these speakers off my stepfather, a pom who passed them on quite reluctantly. I have been using them as a reference monitor for some of the music i record/mix/produce for a while now. I have always been nice to them, never driven them beyond reasonable levels (under 90dB >30secs) for referencing only.

I'm chasing a schematic of the x-over, the specs for performance and where i can source NOS or genuine spare parts in Australia.

This is a genuine thread, i've had no luck with google tonight, i'll keep on looking though.

these speakers are genuine Leaks (to my knowledge), they have a recessed DIN input with +/- poles for balanced cable connection also, 4-8 ohm, 40W (DIN) 4500.

Serial# 3/L3 - 12882 A

To my knowledge they have never been opened or messed with, i have unscrewed the recess, the grey hot glue/gunk on the terminals is still intact with no obvious signs of heat stress, the x-over in one has come away from its double side grey foam strip. From what i can see of the PCB there are no obvious burn outs or dry/cracked joints. I tried to get the grills off the front to check the cones and whatnot but it seems that there are hidden screws within the grill framework that i cannot get to.

Recommendations on a reputable repairer within the Newcastle/Sydney area are welcome as are the things i requested earlier in the post. I'd also be interested in an orignal Leak valve/tube amp to connect up to them as a driver.

All the best over the Xmas season, stay safe and enjoy the sun.

[JBCobra]

Hi MTP
All you would need to do is replace the crossover caps with the same value caps.
I was nervous the first time I re-capped speakers, but it was way easier than I thought it would be. Just open them up and see what value caps you need. The values will be right on the caps in the speakers. Take a picture too. I have no doubt that this group will aim you in the right direction.

[PeteMcK]

re:'All you would need to do is replace the crossover caps ' - that would be required, but it doesn't sound like that's the problem, the drivers themselves need to be checked.
For speakers of this age, sure, the drivers could be re-coned, but frankly it'd cost more than buying a new set of speakers. It's highly unlikely that spares are available. Buy (or make) yourself a new Chrissie present....
I believe Andyg & Rabbitz are in the Newcastle area and may be able to help with testing, although I think Rabbitz is out of action at the moment?

[PeteMcK]

looks like these were state of the art once: Leak Sandwich Loudspeaker
If you're serious about fixing them, perhaps Etone is the best bet for reconing etc...
ETONE SPEAKERS* PRO AUDIO* PA* HI FI* HOME THETRE* SPEAKER SYSTEMS* SPEAKER REPAIRS* RECONE KITS* HF DRIVER DIAPHRAGMS* CROSSOVERS

[JBCobra]

Firstly, take some pictures.........Lets see what you are refering too. Could just need speaker surrounds.

[MTP]

Hi fellas,

the problem isnt with the speakers, im pretty sure of that, it seems to be the crossovers as the problem is intermittent.

It's also a PITA because the boxes are so well made you can't get into them without wrecking em.

Anybody know how to open up the front without destroying them?

There is a similar thread out there with a guy wanting the same thing but he only paid 20 odd bucks for them, if that was the case i wouldn't give a rats but these are pristine.

I'll check Etone, thanks Pete.

[JBCobra]

I can find out how to take them apart
All you need is to freshen up the caps and those speaker will sing again

[nandababaji]

Hi there. You might have a blown bass driver on your Leaks. Try connecting the bass driver directly to your amplifier without the crossover connected. If it is still intermittent it is likely to be the driver rather than the crossover. To dismantle you have to remove the front grill (which the treble driver is mounted on) before removing the driver. I think most if not all of the 600's have a steel rod that screws into the magnet assembly at the back of the driver through a wooden bracing block mounted on the back panel of the cab. You have to unscrew the nut on the back panel to release the bass driver. I actually have a spare bass driver if you need one. You are welcome to have it if you pay the postage only-might be expensive though from the UK!