Need some advice for new 2 way

[Parasonic]

Hello,

Well, after debating going with a single driver system, I have decided to go 2 way. Purchased some Tang Band W6-789E's from Parts Express, and want to go with a simple vented box. My wood working skills are atrocious, so want to be able to complete the job. My question pertains to the crossover. I really want to keep it simple, and am planning on implementing the HiVi RT 1.3 planar isodynamic tweeters, and want to know if I can just cross over with a single high quality cap at about 6-7 kHz, without harm to the tweeters. My amps got about 5 watts, my room is extremely small, and I don't listen at real loud levels. Will this simple crossover scheme work? I don't wish to blow the tweets. Both woofers and tweeters are rated at 92 dB efficiency, and the woofer response goes nearly "flat" up to about 10 kHz.

Thanks for any comments.

Terry

[picowallspeaker]

Wow ! You've found the killer woofer ! 10 KHZ
Now ,play that frequency through that device and tell us
I think 5 K is even too high ,3 K is were lots of woofers aim to reach ,but constrained by their size and mass ,just can't .
Try to dial the 3k freq in some on-line crossover calculator
such Strassacker: Lautsprecher - Boxen - Selbstbau
and please do tweeter a favour and start from second order....
Hope this helps

[Parasonic]

Thanks Pico,

Yes, need to be kind to the tweeters. I will take your advice. Also, it seems a good idea to cross lower as the beaming of the highs will commence about 3 - 4kHz. I appreciate your comments.

Terry

[picowallspeaker]

Well ,a lot of real experts around here that can carry you throughout the voyage of cabinet and filter making . That medium-high sensitivity woofer seems quite good , Also my experience with isodynamic tweeters (infinity's emit tweeter ) was pleasant,the only enemy was distortion from the amplifier that blew one .
Don't trust on-line calculators ,where the values of inductance and capacitance are swapped between woofers and tweeter sections (they are the same)
...even if...the high pass calculator (2nd and 3rd order) has worked fine for me.

[sreten]

Hi.

See the links, quality needs some BSC at least,

rgds, sreten.


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[mayhem13]

Here's a link to quite a few designs using the 789e done by Jkim, a well respected designer with a great ear for voicing. He's done the work for you so give one of the MT variants a try.....you'll be glad you did.

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=214425

[Parasonic]

I will check those links. It looks as if this driver is fairly well regarded, so it will be an interesting project. Again, thanks!

Terry

[sreten]

Hi,

I would severely recommend following the Jkim designs and using
one of the suggested tweeters, the vifa tweeter is excellent for
the price according to Zaph : http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/

I think a tall floorstander is your only option, say 33litres tuned to 40Hz,
its a big box for a 6.5", but that is what the parameters indicate.
A deeper bit wider version of this ? : http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Tempo.html
See other designs at HHH for more cabinet making ideas : http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Auriga.html
The latter would be fine with 18mm instead of 22mm, 22mm seems overkill to me.
But the idea makes a good finish quite a lot easier, to finish spray or use a roller.

rgds, sreten.

[Parasonic]

Sreten,

I was thinking maybe even a bit larger box. Is there any problem here going with more of a golden ratio type of box? I don't much care for tall thinner enclosures. If I'm gonna listen to a box, I don't much care if it's boxy. Also, that tweeter mishmash looks very good, can't get to reading it 'til later....Vifa tweeters are fine by me....is there any problem with going series crossover, like Acoustic Reality? One of my biggest goals is to keep it simple. As always, thanks.

Terry

[sreten]

Hi,

You can go larger if you want, say up to 40L, but beyond that point
fairly pointless due to the Vas of the driver. Keeping the baffle
narrow is good for imaging and critical if using jkim's c/o designs.

Note that due to nature of the design, good sensitivity with
decent bass, power handling, especially in the bass will be
fairly low, with watts it will be the quality not quantity
that really matters.

FWIW forget about a "simple" c/o, they do not work unless
thoroughly designed properly, with a lot of drivers they are
simply not possible for sensible design.

Use the Jkim c/o design for the correct tweeter IMO.

If you want say a wide but not deep speaker you are on
your own, it is still possible to do properly with all the info
in the links, but you need to know what you are doing.

rgds, sreten.

this : http://www.parts-express.com/project...=MagnaCumLaude
indicates things may not be what they seem 1kHz to 2kHz for a simple c/o.