Does anyone have the TAD TL-1601a and Exclusive ET-703 Frequency Response Graph? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 28th November 2010, 11:38 PM   #11
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Slow or fast has no real meaning when speaking about drivers, specially subwoofers. You only have to consider the bandwidth and efficiency.
If you want to stick with the TL1102 I think you should seriously consider these (JBL SUB1500), crossed over around 60Hz to your 1102. W15GTI would also be an option, as well as acoustic elegance AV15.
Any of these will do much better than the TL1601 in the 20-100Hz range (and not using the TL1102 down to at least 80Hz would be a waste...).

Concerning the ET703 / TD4001 integration, it is always better to try to cross the supertweeter as high as possible to avoid comb filtering in the most sensitive regions. 10khz is a good point to consider, but it depends on the horn you are using.
Horns with fins (like the one in the Exclusive Model 3401) are more subject to beaming and lobs at high frequencies, and may demand a lower crossover point. Directivity (loss of it) is also a limiting factor as to how high you should use a horn.
Do you have pictures of your horn?

The frequency response of the TD4001 (on which horn, by the way?) is not that important: as long as the falling in level is slow and regular it is not a problem at all, as long as it it taken into account in the crossover). The beryllium diaphragm will remain pistonic at 10khz, no worries.
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Slow or fast has no real meaning when speaking about drivers, specially subwoofers.
Perhaps we are referring to different things.
I am referring to the speed of cone movement of woofers and subwoofers. How fast the cone can move in/out and retracts to its normal position. But let me know if your statement still holds true.
Does anyone else have knowledge about this?
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:06 AM   #13
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How big the cabinet for the TL-1102 needs to be in order for it to play down to 60Hz-80Hz? Does the cabinet need to be ported?
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:09 AM   #14
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What kind of amplifier do you recommend for the JBL SUB1500?
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manp111 View Post
Perhaps we are referring to different things.
I am referring to the speed of cone movement of woofers and subwoofers. How fast the cone can move in/out and retracts to its normal position. But let me know if your statement still holds true.
Does anyone else have knowledge about this?
nice horns!

the "attack speed" of a driver has to do with its lack of power compression. The more efficient it is and the more voice coil surface it has, the less the power compression for the same SPL. (long term power compression also has to do with the capacity of the motor to reject heat out of the voice coil, but it is more useful for Pro use than hifi use: we are more interested in immediate power compression effects).
With its heavy cone the Sub1500 is much less efficient than a TL1601 in the midband, but that is not the case in the LF. It also has much more voicecoil area than the TAD.

the "decay speed" of a driver (not considering the amplifier here) has to do with the dampening of the cone. The heavy cone a the sub1500 or W15GTI will dampen the resonances much faster than the relatively light cone of the TAD (and that would be true at any frequency).


And then these subwoofers are also capable of moving a lot more air with less distortion...

Last edited by pos; 29th November 2010 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manp111 View Post
How big the cabinet for the TL-1102 needs to be in order for it to play down to 60Hz-80Hz? Does the cabinet need to be ported?
yes

Widget on the audioheritage forum has such a system:
sub1500, TL1102, TD4003/TH4003, ET703

he says it is a killer system, and I tend to believe what he says

Click the image to open in full size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by manp111 View Post
What kind of amplifier do you recommend for the JBL SUB1500?
1000W per channel would not be overkill

Last edited by pos; 29th November 2010 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:49 AM   #17
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1000W per channel would not be overkill
I assume you are referring to class D solid state.

Haha, I am using an 8 watt 300B SET amp for the TL-1601 temporary. I am switching to an 845 SET amp soon.
Do you have experience with using high power SET like 845 for woofers?
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Old 29th November 2010, 01:54 AM   #18
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woofers and LF need WATTS! lots of them! Brutal Pro amps are ideal for this task.
this is one of the benefits of going active: you can choose whatever amp you need/like for each driver
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Old 29th November 2010, 02:03 AM   #19
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I understand your commendation of using the JBL sub and TL-1102 crossed at 60Hz. It is an excellent recommendation. However, it does not suit my application.

First, I have a small room. I need to minimize the speaker cabinet size. The cabinet that I build is 22W x 32H X 25D inch. This cabinet holds both 1601 and 1102 drivers (the 1102 is in its own 40 liter unported box)

I think to build two ported box combined for the JBL and 1102 to play at the desires frequencies requires a much larger box.

Second, I don't really care much for deep bass. I had a REL Studio III (over killed for my room size) before and I didn't like it.

Last edited by HP8903B; 29th November 2010 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 29th November 2010, 02:09 AM   #20
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woofers and LF need WATTS! lots of them! Brutal Pro amps are ideal for this task.
Have you try 845 SET amps on sufficient woofers before. I will try to demo some high power SS amp.

Something that some people are not aware of is wattage is not the only thing. 18-25 watt SET will produce better bass than 40 watt 34 EL Push Pull. Further more, the level of realism of SET is far beyond the level that SS and push pull can achieve, maybe even in terms of LF production.

Last edited by HP8903B; 29th November 2010 at 02:23 AM.
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