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Old 14th November 2010, 01:12 AM   #1
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Default Building Some 2x12 Cabs...

I just bought a Peavey XXX 120W amp (didn't like it at first, but after some EQing and letting the tubes warm up, it definitely gets the job done), and now I need to build a couple of cabs for it. It supports 4ohms, 8ohms, and 16ohms. Seeing as I don't need to bring a 4x12 all the time, I feel like building 2 2x12 cabs would suffice much better. I want to build each cab with an Eminence Wizard and an Eminence Governor. My current plan for each cab is 14"x28"x12" (HWD, infinite baffle, so no back piece). I plan on using 3/4" birch plywood, and then finishing it for a nice look

My only questions are on wiring:
1. The speakers are available in 8ohms and 16ohms. What would be better for each cab, 2 16ohm speakers in parallel for 8ohms, 2 8ohm speakers in series for 16ohms, or 2 8ohm speakers in parallel for 4 ohms?
2. This amp only has one speaker output, so I'll have to daisy-chain them to do more than one cab. How would I go about getting each cab ready for such a setup?
3. Are there any filters or anything I can do to possibly make the cabs sound better?

Thanks!
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Old 14th November 2010, 01:45 AM   #2
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1/ You would need to use 4 ohms to get most power out of the amplifier.
2/ Just have 2 jack sockets on each speaker wired in parallel.
3/ Just use tone controls on the mixer or amplifier.
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Old 14th November 2010, 01:52 AM   #3
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Thanks for the quick response! Will do
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Old 16th November 2010, 09:57 AM   #4
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If it's not too late, use 8 ohm speakers to get 16 ohms per cab (series) so when you connect them in parallel you run the amp at 8 ohms. There will be no difference in power, as it's a tube amp with a transformer, but I like to use as many windings as possible.

Make the cabs a bit bigger for better bass response, esp. for the Governor. Close the back if you want some thump.
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Old 16th November 2010, 06:11 PM   #5
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Nah, I probably can't order the parts for another week or so. I can still make changes to the plans.

I looked up the dimensions of the Blackstar Artisan 212 cab, and I saw that was about 28.14x22.39x10.35. Would those work a lot better?

As for closing the cab, I'm definitely debating that. When I build it, I'll probably compare how it sounds, and see which sounds better.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 17th November 2010, 01:50 AM   #6
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Here's two more possibilities, that will make even more options:

1) Make the backs easily removable, that way you can have both sounds.

2) Add a switch that allows you to switch each cabinet between series or parallel wiring.

Peace,

Dave
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Old 17th November 2010, 03:13 AM   #7
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Good suggestions Dave! What would be the best mechanism for the back to be removable? Think a switch like this one would do the trick?
SIMPLE Parallel/Series Select Switch
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Old 17th November 2010, 03:30 AM   #8
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Hey SnoopKatt,

From the quick read I did, that wiring is what I was thinking of. As the write says, pick the style of switch you want (I would go for a two position rotary here), and follow the wiring instructions. Keep in mind the current that will be going through the switch and the voltage rating.

As far as a removable back, I can think if a couple ways.

1) Use some form of cabinet latch that allows easy release, but also keeps things held tightly when latched. That way it doesn't rattle.

2) Install T-Nuts or some other form of insert, to allow usage of machine screws, into a mounting flange internal to the back of the enclosure. Basically, you want a good mounting flange that is recessed into the cabinet by the thickness of the back panel. By using the T-Nuts mounted into holes in the flange, you can then have corresponding holes in the back panel. You then use some type of screw to hold the back panel on. I would use at least six screw/T-Nut combinations (3 per side), but more is preferrable. Up to the point where it's a pain in the tush to take them out. You can also use a finger screw for this, that way you don't need a screwdriver everytime you want to remove/install the back.

Hope this helps.

Peace,

Dave
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Old 17th November 2010, 06:08 AM   #9
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Thanks for clearing that up! I like that T-Nuts idea, that seems like it'll stay together the best. I'll keep you guys updated!
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Old 17th November 2010, 07:32 PM   #10
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Hello again, I was thinking some more (that was your warning), you could also use a 4 position rotary switch and with some more thinking, you could wire it up so that you would have your series and parallel positions on each cabinet, and you could also have switch positions that allow you to use just one or the other driver.

And in regards to the cabinet construction itself, you could even build separate sub enclosures within the cabinet for each driver, then have the back panel removable in two sections. Thus one driver could be open back, one closed back.

The thing to remember here is that unlike a stereo system, the amp, speakers, etc. are all part of the instrument with electronic music. Thus you can tailor the sound you want by the way you build the cabinet(s).

Peace,

Dave
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