help in choosing a design to build

[microx]

I would like some help in selecting a floorstanding speaker design. I would rather go with a well tested and respected project than trying to work up something from scratch. I am looking for good detail and soundstage and I dont have any budget or size limit (within reason!) . I have a pair of TDL RTL3 to which I have added an "L" pad for the tweeters and I like them except for the rather muddy bass. I have good woodworking equipment/ skills and time on my hands and the patience to build something good.
microx

[MCPete]

Personally I'm not familiar with the speaker model TDL RTL3 and perhaps this is true of most others, also. If you describe that model, and want something similar with improved transient response in the bass range, then you will probably get some suggestions.

If you are asking for "well-tested and respected" floor-standing speaker designs in general, that is too broad, there are probably hundreds of designs that would fit that bill.

Regards,
Pete

[microx]

Fair enough point taken.Being English my experiences are with British brands so here is what I have so far. B&W DM6, old units I have refurbed, big warm sound great for rock and roll. KEF Concerto's, even older 3 way tighter bass but dont like the mid and top much (thought about using the drivers B139 B110 T27 in a new project) and last the speakers I have built. Ported bass 33 litres Hi Vi research DG8, sealed 5 litre mid box using a Jordan JTX92 full range and an open back tweeter unit using an AMT dipole . I am crossing at 300Hz and 3KHz. I like the sound from the individual units but cant get them to gel together the way I want. The TDL RTL3's are a D'Appollito MTM transmission line design and have, for me, the best soundstage but are known for having muddy bass. I would like to sort out my first existing project and the build something else. Hope this gives a better idea of what i like,
microx.

[MCPete]

Can you post the schematic of the 3 way crossover network? Sorry, I don't have any experience with 3 way crossovers, but the schematic is probably the minimum that someone experienced would need.

-Pete

[picowallspeaker]

I would just add another Hi-vi dg8 ,and play with speaker positioning on the baffle (maintaining the tweeter on the top alone )

[glazarou]

first fault...u use a bid-bass for frequencies lower than 300Hz!!!

ok my opinion
buy a pair of 10" inch woofers
buy a pair of tweeters that can go from 2000Hz and up...
use the hi-vi D8G as midrange in range 300Hz-2000Hz

[microx]

Thanks for the replies. The crossovers are KEF DN12, I only used these until the three way active set was finished. My idea was to use a three way variable which is 12dB per octave to determine the best crossing frequencies and then change to the three way 24 dB LR set up I have built after putting in the right caps etc.
The D8G is described as a woofer by Hi Vi but I accept that 10" drivers would give more bass. To add another one would mean rebuilding the boxes. The AMT tweeter can be crossed as low as 1500 Hz but I prefer 3 way and I love the mid range from the Jordan.
This weekend I should be able to set it up as a tri-amped active crossover so who knows maybe all will be clear.....maybe.
I have a large fireplace which is never used and sits between the stereo pair and I have a 15" Beyma not in use so perhaps a big subwoofer...
microx

[glazarou]

The D8G is described as a Bass-Mindrange
Product information8G Bass-Midrange

but anyway....

[microx]

glazarou-you are quite right but from the same description.....The D8G is excellent as a woofer for high power audiophile systems, where maximum bass extension in a compact or medium vented enclosure is needed. This driver will make an outstanding compact subwoofer with its 8.3 mm linear excursion capability.
They have another unit that is very similar but described as "woofer " only but the lower part of the FR graph is almost the same, there is less mid response and it handles more powe but I think they are both woofers.
microx