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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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just finished 1st of pair of Jensen 1071. WOW -the SS 18W/8531 sounds euphoric as a dedicated midrange. Amazing bass too with 10" woofer and no-compromise box volume.
I deviated a little with bass cab dimensions (keeping volume constant) to fit 1 piece veneer for front and sides. I used 1 ohm resistor for tweeter R1011 -not 0.47 as per troels' OK. Boxes are premium birch-ply called "Pure-Bond" from Home-Depot. The front and sides are laminated to 1.75" with extensive matrix bracing. Damping is No-Rez and Acousti-Stuff. All coils are air-core. Caps are Clarity Cap PX,SA,ESA and MR and Jantzen Superior. thanks Troels for a terrific design ! regards, tom |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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The mids are amazing on the 18W8531 when you take away the low bass duties.
Nice build BTW.
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No longer DIY active |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Beautiful work Tamule. Congrats.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Coventry
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Beautiful speakers...
I have been pawing and drooling over the jensen design recently and seriously considering building some with cnc cut ply in a trans-lam setup. Budget means that I think I am going to build something similar first with more conventional boxes and much cheaper drive units.. Something like the Peerless SLS 10", Vifa 17W and a pair of Scanspeak D2905/9000's that I have already picked up from ebay ultra cheap. Do you have any more photo's and details? I'd love to see how you approached the build. Regards, Jai Stanley |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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here are pics of progress so far with 2nd of pair. The woofer coil is mounted with 4 heavy gauge tie wraps through bottom panel. the rest of x-over parts are loosely placed just to give a rough idea of placement. the large caps and coil were accounted for during dimension calculations. the slots around panel perimeters are for biscuit joints. the extra panels are laminated on sides after inner shell is complete. I do all cut-outs AFTER veneering.
Glue used is Gorilla-Glue which allows plenty of application and assembly time before cured. also 100% waterproof. Enjoy, tom |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Very nice build Tamule!
I am tempted by this design too, however just the drivers alone are approx $2500-$3000AUD plus all the crossover components. Keep the pics coming! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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Recently finished a Baby AKSA power amp and a LM4562 based pre.
I have one more speaker to build using the 810921 tweeter and XG18 mid woofer but lack a bit of motivation to commence as it's for the workshop..... one day. It will be a bit like a stage monitor speaker which will be wide but short so it can hang from the ceiling. Drivers will be at 45° to reduce box height so I don't hit my head when walking around.
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No longer DIY active |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Aarhus
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Terrific build, Tom!
Did you make a dedicated tube for the cables to the mid/treble unit? Or do they just pass through the bass chamber? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Did you make a dedicated tube for the cables to the mid/treble unit? Or do they just pass through the bass chamber?
the mid/treble crossover is in the bass cab . the cables then pass out of the bass cab -into the mid cab and drivers. |
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