i know Isobarik is hardly worth it,after reading winisds old help files,and also diysubwoofers , etc..
heres the response, they are cheapies for sure,and only work in ported box isobarik,sealed box single woofer is pretty crap.
1 -how small must the enclosure between the 2 woofers be??
obviously the bigger,the more volume it takes up,of the box total.
2 which is better-clamshell,or tunnel
the sealed box resonates really high obviously,the Fs is 45hz
not very useful.
he can power one channel onto each speaker. (of an amazing 'reactor car audio amp' which is probably 60watt rms clean,not 300 like it says lol.(its too cheap)
Thanks!!
green ported isobarik.yellow sealed.
heres the response, they are cheapies for sure,and only work in ported box isobarik,sealed box single woofer is pretty crap.
1 -how small must the enclosure between the 2 woofers be??
obviously the bigger,the more volume it takes up,of the box total.
2 which is better-clamshell,or tunnel
the sealed box resonates really high obviously,the Fs is 45hz
not very useful.he can power one channel onto each speaker. (of an amazing 'reactor car audio amp' which is probably 60watt rms clean,not 300 like it says lol.(its too cheap)
Thanks!!green ported isobarik.yellow sealed.
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Besides the non-tangible benefits that not many talk about, the biggest advantage of an isobarik is that it halves the Vas, which means for the same bass response you can have a cab 1/2 as big (+ coupling chamber).
With clamshell you have the benefit of the smallest possible coupling enclosure (good), but have to live with the noise from the back of the driver. If the driver is non-vented & you are only using them for low frequancies, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
dave
With clamshell you have the benefit of the smallest possible coupling enclosure (good), but have to live with the noise from the back of the driver. If the driver is non-vented & you are only using them for low frequancies, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
dave
1)The smaller the "enclosure" between the drivers the better.
2) Clamshell- see above
I'm currently using a pair of 12's in a clamshell ported configuration for my HT sub. I modeled it with winISD and am very happy with the results. Not the best for music though, F3 @22hz.
If box size is no object then the benefit of clamshell configuration becomes less important, but it is still easier to construct. In my case it helped me get two 12's into a 2.5 cubic ft ported box. I simply mounted one driver to the baffle as usual, then screwed down the other on top of it, face first. This left close to 3/4" between surrounds, separated by the pressed paper trim ring present on all JL Audio woofers. This is well beyond the normal excusion range for my use. I then sealed the two woofers together with black electrical tape.
2) Clamshell- see above
I'm currently using a pair of 12's in a clamshell ported configuration for my HT sub. I modeled it with winISD and am very happy with the results. Not the best for music though, F3 @22hz.
If box size is no object then the benefit of clamshell configuration becomes less important, but it is still easier to construct. In my case it helped me get two 12's into a 2.5 cubic ft ported box. I simply mounted one driver to the baffle as usual, then screwed down the other on top of it, face first. This left close to 3/4" between surrounds, separated by the pressed paper trim ring present on all JL Audio woofers. This is well beyond the normal excusion range for my use. I then sealed the two woofers together with black electrical tape.
yeap i noticed it makes it possible for an okish response
it will be used for 70hz and under,i dont know if the driver is ported,do you mean pole peice vent/?its a real cheapie driver
its gona make noise anywayi think they have a decent gasket on the front of the woofer,if so i can just mount them clamshell,easily,il ask my mate for a look at them.
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