I didn't want to hear that
, but in the back of my mind I can feel a Tube amp being born, might not be till end of next year though.
That would be in a month or threeI didn't want to hear that
Where has the time gone! It's way past time to build the final version.
I have made some minor design changes, mainly so I don't need too much outside help to build them. Originally the "Man" was going to be fixing to the bass driver box via a steel bracket but have decided to try & stiffen the whole thing up using a carbon fibre veneer on the inside between the panels, at this stage I don't know if that will be sufficient but should have a better idea by tomorrow after the test piece is dry.
As the drivers are planars (Mid & Tweeter) and have very little inertia to deal with, (no big cone racing back & forth), the Man doesn't need to be as stiff as it otherwise would.
For a long time the jury was out on these speakers, never really convincing me that they where the ones I should commit the effort of a final build to. That was until I added the Linkwitz ASP crossover & finally the Twisted Pear Dac well know they really shine & are definitely worthy of a final build.
I understand they are not to everybody's taste (as my brother keeps telling me) but they have grown on me & once finish I think they will be just fine.
The other bits of plywood are for a bedside table just in case you where wondering how they fitted the speaker
I have made some minor design changes, mainly so I don't need too much outside help to build them. Originally the "Man" was going to be fixing to the bass driver box via a steel bracket but have decided to try & stiffen the whole thing up using a carbon fibre veneer on the inside between the panels, at this stage I don't know if that will be sufficient but should have a better idea by tomorrow after the test piece is dry.
As the drivers are planars (Mid & Tweeter) and have very little inertia to deal with, (no big cone racing back & forth), the Man doesn't need to be as stiff as it otherwise would.
For a long time the jury was out on these speakers, never really convincing me that they where the ones I should commit the effort of a final build to. That was until I added the Linkwitz ASP crossover & finally the Twisted Pear Dac well know they really shine & are definitely worthy of a final build.
I understand they are not to everybody's taste (as my brother keeps telling me) but they have grown on me & once finish I think they will be just fine.
The other bits of plywood are for a bedside table just in case you where wondering how they fitted the speaker
Attachments
Hi David long time no see,
I thought you would sell them. Did you try several xo points I can imagine the mid unit sound thin when crossed to low. Also a wider baffle with angular edges can increase the low end performance of the mid unit.
It can make surprising changes.
Did you try a open-baffle for the woofer like the first open baffle you made? the reflections in the H-frame may cause some coloration you do not like.
I thought you would sell them. Did you try several xo points I can imagine the mid unit sound thin when crossed to low. Also a wider baffle with angular edges can increase the low end performance of the mid unit.
It can make surprising changes.
Did you try a open-baffle for the woofer like the first open baffle you made? the reflections in the H-frame may cause some coloration you do not like.
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Hi David long time no see,
I thought you would sell them. Did you try several xo points I can imagine the mid unit sound thin when crossed to low. Also a wider baffle with angular edges can increase the low end performance of the mid unit.
It can make surprising changes.
Did you try a open-baffle for the woofer like the first open baffle you made? the reflections in the H-frame may cause some coloration you do not like.
Hi Helmuth
Iv'e pretty much stayed with the original setup except the crossover is know a modified version of the Linkwitz ASP.
I cross the mids over at 290Hz and the tweeter at 2550hz. at this point I am happy with the sound so it's time to finish them off.
I've been busy building a sub & bed for the daughter 18th and spent a LOT of time building a pair of Mosfet amp's based on Aussie Amp Modules, I'll have to say they sound pretty good as well. Not to mention repairing the front end of my son's car that he smashed two weeks after buying it.
At the moment I have too many project running at once. I have just put together a Twisted Pear Dac & am building a Tub-i-zator valve output stage for it. I still need to build cases for the dac & crossover so will be busy for some time.
With the speakers I was sick of looking at the pine board prototype & have declared this as the year to get things finished, you seem to be good at getting things finished.
The TP dac will basically become a preamp & I will use the Arduino boards to add a remote that will control the whole system, well at least that's the plan
What have you been up to?
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Beautiful amp david, nice the Vfet modules?
I have reused a backloaded horn enclosure, with a fullrange 95dB 1Wmtr. Nice result but the speaker does color the sound it is not the standard I have with the open baffle.
Now I am building a 3 way horn system 98dB with mid without horn with a very high quality mid of PHL-audio it work out very good high efficiency very low harmonics and almost no third harmonic and constant dispersion even up to 20kHz.
Drawing horn super tweeter and compact horn low unit.
measurements.
super tweeter
mid and tweeter.
Simulation low unit
The current OB does 94dB 1wmtr now I want to have 98dB 1wmtr for the 12W PSE tube amp.
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I knew you wouldn't be sitting on your hands
The modules I used are these & yes they are very nice.
Which mid driver have you chosen?
I am looking for a mid I can put into a small 2 way for my sister.
What is your Super tweeter?
How do you like the Horn sound, the local Forum has a few guys getting into horns, they seem to be a prickly beast & not easy to tame.
The modules I used are these & yes they are very nice.
Which mid driver have you chosen?
I am looking for a mid I can put into a small 2 way for my sister.
What is your Super tweeter?
How do you like the Horn sound, the local Forum has a few guys getting into horns, they seem to be a prickly beast & not easy to tame.
I knew you wouldn't be sitting on your hands
The modules I used are these & yes they are very nice.
Which mid driver have you chosen?
I am looking for a mid I can put into a small 2 way for my sister.
What is your Super tweeter?
How do you like the Horn sound, the local Forum has a few guys getting into horns, they seem to be a prickly beast & not easy to tame.
The mid driver is best I could find with high efficiency. I found also nice 10" ones but that would make a to big center to center spacing . For the super tweeter. That also is a aspect you need to imply in your design closer fitting of mid and tweeter.
The super tweeter is a 1 inch driver with my own horn.
The bass is a frontloaded one like for example the Klipsch La Scala, the backloaded types make a higher riplle and become bigger to build. Goal is to have the advantage of the horn but to minimize coloration by it. So I keep it horn free in the midrange in the earia where we are less sensitive I have the advantage of high dynamic and low distortion and good efficiency.
As mid for your sister I can advise a highend one of 33 dollar. Tangband aluminum with magnesium-cone aluframe phase-plug linear from 100Hz to 5kHz.
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w4-657sh.htm
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Helmuth
At this stage the design of these speakers is set in concrete, or maybe carbon fibre Once this round of projects are finished, then it will be time to tackle another speaker design.
I'm very happy to report the carbon fibre worked a treat, its as stiff as you could possibly hope for. I have also learned a few lessons on the way. Its a bit time consuming & will be especially so when I do the opposite piece, as it has all of the recesses for the cables, so the taping & removing the excess carbon will take for ever.
I have realised I need to veneer the front faces first then round the edges then put the base on and carbon after that. I am going to veneer the faces with 3mm to 5mm solid wood veneers which I haven't made as yet & will need to buy some wood for the job, so the project has come to a halt for the moment
With the sisters speaker I was thinking maybe something more like the PHL Mid Bass 1330 or 1220 with a dome tweeter.
I did like the price point of your suggested driver.
At this stage the design of these speakers is set in concrete, or maybe carbon fibre
Once this round of projects are finished, then it will be time to tackle another speaker design.I'm very happy to report the carbon fibre worked a treat, its as stiff as you could possibly hope for. I have also learned a few lessons on the way. Its a bit time consuming & will be especially so when I do the opposite piece, as it has all of the recesses for the cables, so the taping & removing the excess carbon will take for ever.
I have realised I need to veneer the front faces first then round the edges then put the base on and carbon after that. I am going to veneer the faces with 3mm to 5mm solid wood veneers which I haven't made as yet & will need to buy some wood for the job, so the project has come to a halt for the moment
With the sisters speaker I was thinking maybe something more like the PHL Mid Bass 1330 or 1220 with a dome tweeter.
I did like the price point of your suggested driver.
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Then I would advise the discovery Scanspeak series very nice drivers, low mechanical losses good linearity great-brand name and very nice price. Cross it low 1.5kHz because of ctc spacing.
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18w-8434g00.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/r2604-833000.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d2604-830000.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18w-8434g00.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/r2604-833000.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d2604-830000.pdf
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PHL goodness ,hows it going David
Cheers
Well it's VERY nice to hear from you, I bet your amps are better, are they finished or shouldn't I ask?
Hi David
I'm still keeping track of your projects
.I doudt my amps are any better than yours its all about the how the whole system works together .Cheers
Mal
Progress has been very slow, too many projects, too many interruptions.
I have cut Tasmanian Blackwood to about 5mm thick & laminated it on the front face. Unfortunately when I route the curve on the edges the grain gets raised in the sections that the router bit is running against the grain. There is no way of avoiding going against the grain. I am using a brand new bit but still the grain gets raised & dug out.
I will try modifying an old bit tomorrow to see if I can improve things. As yet I have not cut the full curve. I was hoping to avoid using too much sandpaper as it will take the crispness off the curve, but I don't think I will have much chose.
The plywood edges will be black at the end of the day.
What I REALLY hate is having my fingers so close to the router bit when I'm curving the head section, scary stuff
I have cut Tasmanian Blackwood to about 5mm thick & laminated it on the front face. Unfortunately when I route the curve on the edges the grain gets raised in the sections that the router bit is running against the grain. There is no way of avoiding going against the grain. I am using a brand new bit but still the grain gets raised & dug out.
I will try modifying an old bit tomorrow to see if I can improve things. As yet I have not cut the full curve. I was hoping to avoid using too much sandpaper as it will take the crispness off the curve, but I don't think I will have much chose.
The plywood edges will be black at the end of the day.
What I REALLY hate is having my fingers so close to the router bit when I'm curving the head section, scary stuff
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How about the charcoal grey hammer tone I used on my amp case's ,looks nice inside .
Or an automotive metalic grey . being inside you mighten need to clear it to protect the metalic .But cleaning it could be a problem .
Do you want the cab's to look shiny or a satin or matt finish .
Cheers
Or an automotive metalic grey . being inside you mighten need to clear it to protect the metalic .But cleaning it could be a problem .
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do you want the cab's to look shiny or a satin or matt finish .
Cheers
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Hi 56
I was going for a Satin to almost matt finish, I think the automotive is probably the go, if it can be done in a Satin, I seem to remember you where toying with some pretty outlandish colurs for something at one stage
Any suggestions?
I used the hammer tone one one of my little projects but it's not what I'm looking for for the speakers.
DQ
Heres a couple of cabs I painted for a SNA member .He wanted a satin finished that could be cleaned .So i mixed 10% flatten base into the paint & the last couple of coats I thined it down a little bit more .
Don't forget painting satins and matts its very hard getting dust out of the paint without
painting the surface again .
Cheers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Don't forget painting satins and matts its very hard getting dust out of the paint without
painting the surface again .
Cheers
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