OB Project Design Started, Help Requested.

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Just finished reading Gainphile's "Measuring Open Baffle Loudspeakers" Interesting. Can't wait to read Gainphile's "Advanced" topics, especially "why passive dipoles won't work". Need to know how my well received passive OB designs manage to please so many? Hmmmm.....? Northern CA DIY, LSAF, RMAF......
 
One can't correct deviations in time domain with amplitude adjustments.

Otherwise DSPs would have solved all of our 'problems' by now.

I'm not 100% sure that allowing for a listening space in the design parameters is the same as performing EQ (DSP). I use no EQ and have a good response, but I did measure my system in my room as a means to easily achieving the desired sound. I am something of a novice with speaker design however, always looking to learn more :cool:
 
Can't wait to read Gainphile's "Advanced" topics, especially "why passive dipoles won't work".

I'd definitely like to read that too. It's very much news to me as my ears and measurements told me (my) passive open baffles can work, and if this is the sound of "not working" then sign me up for more!! Sure, there are trade-offs but "won't work" seems a bit strongly-worded. It also implies the author hasn't tried - yet??
 
I'm all for measuring outside for crossover purposes & to see how the crossover is working, but for me the final adjustments are made in the room.

I had the tweeter EQ'd within an inch of its life, showing a fairly impressive looking line, in the end I turned the tweeter specific EQ off & left the global high shelving on and liked the result better, even though the measurement didn't look so good.

My passive P17 clones sound pretty bloody good to me and may others, no audio nuts though. (they didn't measure well). I think the approach of keeping it simple, like the P17 crossover, can have benefits

David
 
Since I reported "I think I'm happy for the moment" I was listening to some classical guitar & thought the highs where a bit lacking, so guess what, I had a fiddle, imagine that.

I changed the high shelf configuration a little & "I think I'm happy for the moment":)

Or maybe not, we will see, they are sounding great though.

I was convinced to go active by the boys on the forum, "it'll be much easier they said" & they where right in one respect, it SO much easier to change the crossover & EQ 10mins & your done, with no dirty hands, I'm glad I did.

Its also lead to another project, six channel amp. :rolleyes:

David

I should have said 2 extra projects, the active crossover of course.
 
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It is not my intention to offend anyone. I have reworded it to "Difficulties with passive dipole loudspeakers."

Is this bit yet to be written?

I enjoyed your 5 steps to great sounding dipoles. It's a bit prescriptive but I'm sure anyone following those steps would get something close to great sound or better.

Your S12 open baffles look a little like mine, except mine are passive and use waveguides and no rear tweeter (yet). I would say the comments on SQ largely echo what I hear, except with 12" woofers in a small room I have enough bass.

Sorry for thread-jacking David.

Simon
 
I had the tweeter EQ'd within an inch of its life, showing a fairly impressive looking line, in the end I turned the tweeter specific EQ off & left the global high shelving on and liked the result better, even though the measurement didn't look so good.

Hi David,

This is not so surprising. EQ is generally a bad thing unless it's urgently needed e.g. to remove the dipole peak from a driver or to bring up the bass frequencies on an open baffle woofer. A flatter response can often sound worse.

Also, sometimes EQing one little peak at one specific location could mean creating another anomaly at a slightly different location / mic position (e.g. slightly off-axis).
 
Is this bit yet to be written?

I enjoyed your 5 steps to great sounding dipoles. It's a bit prescriptive but I'm sure anyone following those steps would get something close to great sound or better.

Your S12 open baffles look a little like mine, except mine are passive and use waveguides and no rear tweeter (yet). I would say the comments on SQ largely echo what I hear, except with 12" woofers in a small room I have enough bass.

Sorry for thread-jacking David.

Simon

No worries, I'm not too precious about such things:)

David
 
I'm thinking about putting in a safety capacitor for the tweeters, just in case the MiniDSP goes bad, given I know sooo little about such things:
  1. Is this a good idea?
  2. What capacitor & size/voltage would you recommend?
  3. I assume I would just put it in series to the positive terminal?
David
 
Determining the value of your cap means making a choice about whether it'll form part of the overall filter or not. If not, then you'll want to size it very large (15uF+ should do) so it doesn't interfere with the active crossover.

The cheaper and probably better-sounding option would be to use it as an extra pole of filtering and size it accordingly. You'll need to do the calculation based on crossover frequency and driver impedance but it's likely to be somewhere between 2uF-10uF.

I'm sorry I can't be more specific than that.
 
Determining the value of your cap means making a choice about whether it'll form part of the overall filter or not. If not, then you'll want to size it very large (15uF+ should do) so it doesn't interfere with the active crossover.

The cheaper and probably better-sounding option would be to use it as an extra pole of filtering and size it accordingly. You'll need to do the calculation based on crossover frequency and driver impedance but it's likely to be somewhere between 2uF-10uF.

I'm sorry I can't be more specific than that.

Any help s always welcome, thanks

David
 
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I'm thinking about putting in a safety capacitor for the tweeters, just in case the MiniDSP goes bad, given I know sooo little about such things:
  1. Is this a good idea?
  2. What capacitor & size/voltage would you recommend?
  3. I assume I would just put it in series to the positive terminal?
David

Of course SimonY is right, but if you do run off the DSP, just add a bigger cap in for safety of the thing your looking at. Preferable something that would cut around its min x-point.
 
Do the top of the tweeters visibly shake when the woofers are playing? You may want to try isolating the mid/ tweeter tower from the H frame with it's own base and some sorbothane or by swinging them from cord.

They don't appear to shake, I have some isolation ideas, but for the moment the speaker development is on hold until I get a couple of other projects out of the way, still some more prototyping to do on these.

thanks for the input.
 
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