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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I've been toying with the idea of building my own speakers ever since I started upgrading my car sound system 5 years ago. I acquired a bit of cash working over the summer and I've started my project kind of backwards. I already have some of the drivers I want to use. I picked the drivers from a price and hype format(I know its a stupid way to go about it but what's done is done! Those dang reviews can be so convincing) I picked up a pair of Aurasound NSW2-326-8A-120 2" Full Range based on their use in the Linkwitz Pluto's:
https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8465 And I have a pair of Peerless 835004 SDS 6-1/2" Woofer 4 Ohm based on their cheap price and raving reviews: Peerless 835004 SDS 6-1/2" Woofer 4 Ohm | Parts-Express.com I also have PSB Alpha B1's and Mission 701's along with some old KLH and RSL speakers from the 80's and some other bookshelfs from MB Quart and Boston Acoustics that aren't worth listening too. My plan was to make my own version of the Pluto's that were passive and utilized the Peerless woofer to save money. That idea has recently deteriorated due to my fear of building a crossover and inability to measure/understand t/s parameters. So now I was thinking of making some type of 3 woofer 1 tweeter (per pair) type monitor with the Peerless woofers and Aurasound tweeters. What I need help/advice with is the design of the crossover and box. I could just make boxes with out any expertise and use crossovers from my other speakers and I would be willing to bet they would sound decent enough, but I think there are people on here that would like to help me out and get to design my speakers for the pure joy of it! As far as my experience goes well I can solder decent enough and I've built subwoofer boxes for my car so the woodwork won't be a problem. I also have a Mac and have failed at using the free online software that is supposed to help with making speakers... Thanks for reading! Any input is welcomed and appreciated! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hi ! Where are the other two M's ??? You said you had 1 pair of woofers!
I would have preferred to buy some 12-16 Ohm versions and parallel them. Then ,if you have some broken woofers,you can use the cone to make a waveguide for the little aurasound...opposite to Pluto's design ! It makes easier transition to woofer's emission and simple 1st order can be used . In fact ,when ordering speakers...crossover parts are as important as the drivers . Both deserve lots of thinking and study . |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Measurements for those Peerless drivers in this thread
Measurements On A Peerless! - Page 2 - Techtalk at Parts-Express.com you won’t really get below 50Hz with these, but if that acceptable, a 2.5 way would be the way to go, using one peerless as a mid and the other pair in parallel crossed over at your BSC frequency
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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picowallspeaker - what 12-16 ohm woofers would you recommend?
PeteMcK - Is there an alternative driver you have in mind? I was hoping with three 6 1/2" drivers I would get some decent low frequency extension but maybe not.. How can you tell what kind of bass you'll get? I'm really open to anything guys, as long as its on the cheap side (like $35 a driver). I'd be willing to swap the Peerless drivers before the Aurasound because of their cost.. I appreciate the feedback! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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re:'How can you tell what kind of bass you'll get?' - type the parameters into unibox:
UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design - Kristian Ougaard and play with different box sizes and tunings
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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unfortunately the unibox excel doesnt work properly on my mac. maybe its because my version is too new??
Maybe the proper question to ask is what would you do with two peerless woofers and the two aurasound 2inchers? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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mmmmh. I would built something like Linkwitz's Pluto..
![]() Just consider the little Aurasound as a FR that needs lots of help in the lows. Maybe a F.A.S.T. topology with the woofer on a side would make a slim cabinet. Not going active means that coils >5mH have to be used. If the woofer permits , also a bandpass enclosure ,i.e. hidden in a double reflex enclosure. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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try Winisd:
LinearTeam
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Update:
Now I have 4 Dayton RS180's to play with. Does anyone have any input on a MTM with two RS180s and an Aurasound NSW2? I was hoping I could use the Aurasound to cross nice and low.. Could I use a crossover setup like Dr. K's MTM on partsexpress or one of the others similar designs like the Natalie P.? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Guelph, Ontario
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have you read the Nat p thread. You should. There's alot of good info there. While your at it, read all Jon's posts regarding designs with the RS180.
These xo's are not adaptable. Since you can't measure and don't have experience you should do an existing design. Why not build the Nat Ps. Unlikely you would find better design for the money. |
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