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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I just went overboard and built 2 massive cabinets 4x2x2 completely disregarding the math since the purpose is to house a plethora of tweeters and 2 aluminum cone 15's. Huge and loud for the sake of P.A. use.
I'm not sure about bracing though. So far I've conceived just adding a rib cage skeletal like structure before installing my insulation material. Here's a hard draft of the design. ![]() I'll likely add vertical beams to the rear/side corner seams as well. I had thought about placing some cross beams horizontally but, really don't want to divide the sound waves. The weight is also crazy enough anyway. There is a 3 inch vent at the top and bottom of the speaker baffle. Does anyone have preferences for bracing their loud speakers? I've seen a lot of really amazing designs as well as crude internal builds where several 2x4's are just bridged across and through the center of the cabinet. I'm avoiding braces that will create ducts and sound wave dividing and will only implement such if there's too much noise or boom. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Toronto and Delray Beach, FL
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All kinds of different forces acting on the wider expanses of rectangular surfaces. Sealed boxes need the most attention - OK to make them a little leaky even if it drives your simulation program crazy!
One main force is like a balloon expanding. So run braces like from middle of the left side sheet to the middle of the right. One way is to take a length of electrical conduit pipe (rigid steel, light, cheap, available) and epoxy it in place on the two sides. Wood OK too. One brace that way is much more effective that trying to rigidize with "ribs" to the plane surfaces.
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Dennesen ESL tweets, Dayton-Wright ESL (110-3200Hz), Klipschorn mixed-bass woofer w/param. EQ plus 1954 AR-1W or giant OB HiFi construction since 1956 |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Ah yeah I hadn't really thought about it that way. The flexing and expanding from the gas compression. Ribs like I proposed would certainly make it tough as nails but a beam through the center would obviously be more effective in terms of added mass to performance ratio.
I had also conceived a plan to use angled boards at the top and bottom equal in width to the baffle and in depth to the cabinet when angled that would bounce the sound right out the ducts. I suppose I should got back to that concept and use a beam right through the center as well. Then I'll have center flex bracing and directional architecture that braces the top and bottom from flexing. |
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Any enclosure this large will need bracing. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Cabinet bracing idea | stephenmarklay | Multi-Way | 11 | 19th January 2010 07:44 PM |
| 0.50 ft3 Cabinet bracing | DIFORCE | Multi-Way | 3 | 17th January 2010 07:09 AM |
| Bracing the cabinet | Lewis Moon | Multi-Way | 5 | 4th October 2008 11:54 PM |
| Metal Bracing in PE Sub Cabinet | randytsuch | Subwoofers | 11 | 26th October 2007 07:43 PM |
| When does cabinet bracing become necessary? | mazeroth | Multi-Way | 9 | 4th December 2004 03:43 PM |
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