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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 4th January 2002, 09:36 PM   #11
ucla88 is offline ucla88  Tahiti
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The Adire drivers are very good indeed, but I've been hearing not-too-great things about the PE amps. Perhaps an Adire or Apex Jr. amp would be the better choice.
hmmm, what have you heard. i haven't actually bought the PE amp yet, so i'm wondering exactly what you had heard? i imagine the adire are better, but somewhat pricey. the apex is nifty, but i would think it's in the same league as the PE.

the next step up would be a prosound amp, crown, qsc or something like that.
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Old 7th January 2002, 07:03 PM   #12
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Bryan et. all

I too am interested in any information on the PE 250W amp, and how it compares to the Adire products (e.g. the AVA250 or the HS200).

The HS units look nice but I am concerned that they have simple phase switches and not variable adjustment. How important is the phase adjustment? I am assuming it's largely dependent on the sub placement in the listening room and its distance from the main speakers?

Adire's marketing for the AVA250 seems to take a swipe clearly at the PE 250W amp: "eliminate that annoying excess boost (in some cases, as high as 6 dB at 30 Hz!). "

If designed properly what's the sin in using an amp with some boost?

thanks
<peter>
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Old 7th January 2002, 07:53 PM   #13
Super is offline Super  United States
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Ok, this is just what I've heard.

As for the reliability of the PE amps, another fellow on the board with the alias BAM has been having severe overheating problems with his 120 watt sub. You can probably find the thread in the SS forum somewhere.

As far as that boost goes, it is not just PE amps that give this sort of boost. I think the PE amp is +3db, but other manufacturers do indeed have +6. As far as home theater goes, this may not be a problem, but if you have a well designed sub, a boost of this magnitude can become quite annoying, and make the bass overwhelming, and the SPL measurements will be far from linear without active EQ. Many people who buy the PE amps change the resistor values to disable the bass boost, but this voids the warranty.

And in my own experiences, I find that infinitely variable phase adjustment has been crucial for integrating my sub properly with the mains. In my room, the phase adjustment is about 70 degrees: a far cry from 0 degrees, or 180. I fiddled with the phase control a lot longer than the crossover control, and I found that I could clearly distinguish changes in the phase control to a greater extent than the crossover.

Although I have no direct experience using the PE amps, I can attest to build and sound quality of the AVA-250 as being superb. The heatsinks have rarely gotten more than warm to the touch, and the solder joints on the PCB seemed to be neat. The controls also feel sturdy, and the whole piece seems to be very well constructed.
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Old 9th January 2002, 05:32 PM   #14
ogp is offline ogp  United States
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I was considering building these speakers. The only thing is that I am more partial to floor standing towers for mains as oppossed to using speaker stands. I guess I could just leave the speakers as designed but make them tall enough to sit on the floor? And maybe stuff the cabinet or something to make sure it wouldn't resonate? What about doing something like adding a side firing woofer? Would this be feasible?

Dave
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Old 9th January 2002, 07:16 PM   #15
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Hi, I'm also building these speakers, could someone clear up for me if the cross-overs are bi-wireable design, thanks, Matt
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Old 9th January 2002, 08:39 PM   #16
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ogp : You can definitely modify the mains (and the surrounds) to be floor standing. I have seen a guy hanging out I think on HTF or Madisound (can't remember where I saw his pics) who did just what you describe. His web pics are here. Basically you can extend the four vertical faces of the cabinet to be tall enough to be floor standing. The important rule is to keep the "bottom" of the internal volume the proper distance from the top. This means that the upper part of your cabinet is the correct volume, and the lower part is empty, and does not affect the characteristics of the drivers. The lower part is also an excellent place to stash the crossover networks and the terminal plate. If I had to do mine over, I would have taken this approach.

mattpman : since you are building these speakers, I will assume you have already checked Audax's design pages . These speakers are definitely bi-wirable; all you need to do is use a terminal plate that has four lugs instead of two. The crossover network for each driver is separate. Just hook up each network to a different pair of lugs inside the cabinet.

Some really kick *** pictures of the finished kits can be found at:

here
and the
center channel
and
here
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Old 9th January 2002, 11:23 PM   #17
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Thanks Silverpike, you've cleared that up for me (I thought they were, but had doubts)

Thanks again ,

Matt

ooh, ooh, forgot...are the holes (for the drivers) given on the audax website the cut-out holes, or the router holes (I want to fllush mount). Sorry about that quessie, I forgot to ask it in the first post.
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Old 10th January 2002, 12:15 AM   #18
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mattpman : The cutouts shown on the cabinet diagrams are through-hole cutouts. You will need a rabbet bit (or some similar method) to route out a lip around the edges of the specified cutouts to flush mount the driver.

I highly reccomend looking at Audax's individual driver pages. They have detailed physical dimensions for each one. I actually routed the cutouts and rabbets before I ever had the drivers in my hands, because Audax has very accurate physical dimensions . My drivers fit right in after I purchased them .

Poke around Audax's site you can find the links to individual drivers.
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Old 10th January 2002, 11:38 PM   #19
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Thanks silverpike, you've been of great help.

Thanks again,
Matt
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Old 11th January 2002, 03:10 AM   #20
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Default Sealed vs ported boxes?

AudioFreak why do you generally prefer sealed boxes to ported ones?

SteveO
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