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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I am thinking of building a pair of statements..
1) I see plans for a sealed version and wonder how diffent the sound will be.. 2) If I build the vented version would I be able to build them leaned back at a 20º angle with top and bottom square to floor or will than change the air space too much... I'm really green so please excuse the green questions Thanks.... |
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#2 |
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Audio Engineer
diyAudio Member
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The change in air space won't be a problem, putting a vent in without realigning the bass will. Also if the crossover has been designed for a flat baffle then angling the speaker up will mean the phase of the crossover will be out on the listening axis. How much its out by depends on the type of crossover.
Regards, Andrew |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Thanks Andy,
I think I will just make them as the plan says... I don't know enough yet to make changes |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: latitude 40.8510 longitude -96.7592 altitude 362 meters
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The sealed version is for those that find the vented version too large or imposing, and generally used with a sub or 2. They will have to be placed them on stands to maintain the proper tweeter height.
Curt C
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Curt's Speaker Design Works |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Thanks Curt,
The sealed version I guess looses some bass? Small is better in my living room its only 14' x 14' I'll have to think on the size to make.. 50" Plasma and several speakers its stating to look like a audiophile lives here and he is the only one into A/V ![]() I do have a 10" JBL sub I just bought a new 500w amp for and plans to upgrade the speaker.. What would you all do? Sealed or Vented ? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: latitude 40.8510 longitude -96.7592 altitude 362 meters
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The vented Statements have an f3 (-3 dB point) in the low 30's, while the sealed version will be around 50 Hz. -This will not be an issue if you are augmenting it with a sub.
Remember, they can't be placed up against the walls. The mids need a minimum of about 10" behind the speaker to 'breathe'. C
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Curt's Speaker Design Works |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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AAHH Thanks,
At first I seen 10' as life is never easy for me but 10" is no problem... I have 600 board feet (1'x1'x1") of 4/4 (1") super clear Okoume (african mahogany) (plain jane salmon colored wood) I am thinking for using on the case.. I also have 300 bf of 12/4 (3") Bubinga (african rosewood) I want to use on the faces.. I also have 100s of sq ft of veneer like waterfall bubinga and quilted and fiddleback maple if the okoume looks to plain and I think it might.. As soon as it cools off here in GA I going to start working on the cases.. Is these any changes to anything I want to read up on ? Like crossover parts changes or new speakers? I'd like to thank you for the time you put into sharing I hope some day I will be able to usderstand better what you all are talking about I have sold my soul for rock n roll when I was very yound and I love woodworking so what better hobby could there be than making speakers Thanks Again Last edited by rocknrolldoctor; 4th September 2010 at 05:18 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I am also looking at building a high end speaker for home theater and music and am looking at the Statements. From what I've read on Curt's web site the Statements sound excellent. I think the sealed version would work the best for me as I have two HSU subs and I believe they would be a good match. As mentioned in a previous post, the sealed version have an f3 around 50cps lending to the use of a sub.
Does anyone have any other thoughts about the sealed version and how they sound with a sub as compared to the vented version? Thanks Richard |
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