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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi All
I am trying to make corrections on the crossover for my friendīs OB that uses the following drivers: Two Woofers Beyma SM115/N 15in 8ohm 98dB sensivity 30-3kHz 29Hz resonance freq One Mid Supravox 215 RTF 64 Full range 50 ~10kHz 8 ohm 97dB~100dB sensivity 60Hz Fs One tweeter B&C DE250 8ohm 108.5dB sensivity Response 1 ~18kHz As I am not used to tune crossovers and am quite noob about these matters, I hope I can get some guidance here (I am used to that in diyaudio.com) Actually I have one 1,2uF cap in series with the tweeter, one 4,7mH coil in series with the two woofers that operate in parallel and a "contour filter" in series with the mid (4mH // 35ohm). The trebble is way too proheminent and there is a serious lack of bass. In loud drum passages the supravoz reaches itīs limits and sounds compressed. I believe the best compromise would to cut the woofers at 200~400Hz and let the mid go from there to 16kHz where the tweeter should fill the gap. I downloaded lspCAD6 Lite but can not understand how to input the drivers specs so .... ![]() What should I do ? Best regards Ricardo |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Ricardo,
You are just beginning to find out how difficult working with multi-way XO's is. To be honest, if you're rather green, the best thing to do it is go active. Look up the active crossover options here on the net from the dealer closest to you. Active XO's are not as expensive as the route you are about to take. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melb
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I am building an OB speakers now, the procedure to get a successful OB working properly, it much easier to go active and if you like later design passive x-over for your speakers config.. Depending on your speakers config. and spec and baffle width, it may be difficult to get the x-over right using just passive components alone.
I use DCX2496 as my active x-over(it has a built-in DAC as well), I can EASILY configure my system Xover based on the DCX. When I like the sound I can design a passive x-over for tweeter and Mid range which I am doing now and then extend to mid range and woofer as well based on the DCX setting. You must also get a microphone and measuring s/w like ARTA FOR FREE to make sure the FR is correct off and on axis. BTW I use a commercial s/w to design my x-over however there a few free x-over s/w(very good one as well) floating around. The is no short cuts but learn how to use these s/w and it will take time, that why this is a hobby. Cheers happy building and designing. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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Hi Ricardo !
Agree with the responses. Active is much easier. At least the part woofer-midrange. The crossover depends on the geometry of the panel. Can you show us the plan ? the dimension ? a photo ? It is possible to make something passive but very hard. The woofer seems not match on the paper with passive OB requirements (Qts>0.5). Troels OB7 monster : OB7 Your friend 'sproject could work if the panel is as large as 1m ![]() Regards |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
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Ease your troubles dramatically and at least go active on the bass... maybe just use sub amps with built variable high pass. Then design a two way passive for the mid and tweeter so you can run them both off your SET or whatever and make use of their high efficiency.
again, I'd vote with everyone else for all active. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Winterswijk
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Quote:
Good coils and capasitors are cost the same as the perfect class d amplifier of hypex. A listened to the amp connected to magnepans sounded perfect. Impedance in depended behaivour and low and constant THD does not increase with power. Hypex Electronics B.V. BEHRINGER: DCX2496 http://www.hypex.nl/docs/UcD180HG_datasheet.pdf Last edited by Helmuth; 12th July 2010 at 06:54 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok
I agree with you but my friend is very stubborn. Hi Jerome... would you give me a hint about min Qts for an OB ? The OB my friend built are 1,8 meters high but only 50cm wide and worst of all, the lower woofer is almost sitting on the floor. I would be very happy if I could design a propper crossover for the mid / tweeter. I will study the hypex power for the woofers after that. Can you please guide me into a good mid/high crossover ? I already read about OB with the supravox in this site: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SupravoxDTQWT.htm And got some ideas about baffle interaction here: http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf Last edited by RCruz; 12th July 2010 at 07:45 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: City of Angles
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Do you have a measurement microphone?
I don't want to discourage you, but trying to do this crossover without some way to measure what you've done is practically impossible, especially for a neophyte...
__________________
double complete rainbow all the way!! |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Winterswijk
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Quote:
Then only way is to measure what your output is, and then optimise the XO. I can measure what I have build and worry about projects how are build only on theory. Little chance that you get a good result. Did you read this analogue XO.Behringer CX2310? When you build active it will be much more easier to change things and in the end will be less expensive. Last edited by Helmuth; 12th July 2010 at 08:17 PM. |
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