Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 1st July 2010, 03:00 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Default Going to try Swingin this weekend – how to get it right first time?

No, not a '70s style four+ some

This weekend I'm making a swinging dipole system a la mige0 Beautiful Swingin' Speaker

I want to swing a fullranger (to be crossed to midbass about 250 Hz).

The driver weighs about 5 – 6 kg(!), is 240 mm across, yet has only 4 bolt holes.
With the bolt holes facing on diagonals facing “North East”, “North West”, SW and SE, I’d think only the 2 lower bolt holes could be used to suspend the driver. So each hanging wire would carry about 3 kg.

So I was likely to put it on a minimal square baffle (18 mm ply) maybe 280 mm across, which could provide 2 or 4 additional points (hooks?) to hook wire up to.

Based on the improvements that cuibono found when he oriented the Violet drivers radially straight at the listening position Violet DSP Evolution - an Open Baffle Project

I could then use 2 of the additional points to control the angle of the baffle (hence the driver), by adjustable wires to the rear.

Hope all that is clear

So to carry either 1.5 or 3 kg per hole for a swinging system; and separately control the angle of the baffle, what sort of wire?
And swinging from above, to allowing front – back movement - hang the wire off hooks?

Any other advice?

Thanks
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st July 2010, 10:17 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Just use a strong wire, that is insulated to lower friction? . .
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st July 2010, 10:35 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
StigErik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
I've found that its a good idea to have suspension in the vertical direction as well - or else some vibration will transfer through the wire used for suspension. I use rubber straps to provide that. In fact I suspend four 8" woofers with just two rubber straps, total weight is approx 9 kg.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles and dipoles
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st July 2010, 03:13 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Good idea, looks great ;!
What sort of shop sells rubber straps?
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st July 2010, 04:56 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
StigErik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Look for them in car or truck accessory shops, that's where I found mine. The type I used are in the US called "truck tarp straps". They are quite strong and not too flexible - perfect for some kilograms of speakers.
__________________
dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles and dipoles
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st July 2010, 06:55 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
twest820's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Orygun
Stig Erik and Michael both hung using bolts through the mounting holes, though Michael's cable runs also go around the magnet. I hung by supporting the magnet and nothing else; you can almost certainly avoid the hassle of cutting a baffle by using a similar approach with the Supravoxes. It'll depend on exactly how the magnet's built and where the balance point of the driver is, but I'd be surprised if their center of mass is forward of the magnet or if you need more than light trimming tension on lines to the mounting holes once the magnet's supported.

I've had good results with picture wire---can't feel any vibration in the frames; whatever's there is lower level than my pulse. Another option is to put the magnet in some sort of sling. Canvas and old climbing webbing were two possibilities I considered but stranded wire and screw eyes were handier. For fabric I was thinking of having a bit of a jig which would make it easy to adjust the sling's position and then clamp it place; just a couple blocks of wood. I'm unsure why Stig Erik hit problems with the chains he was originally using but, at a naive level, it would seem a series of rigid links would be more prone to rattles and such than a continuously flexible support. One suspicion I have is the links may have been working against each other.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd July 2010, 07:17 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Thanks guys!
I’m goin home via the shops

i'll read up the link soon too
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2010, 07:53 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
StigErik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Any progress?
__________________
dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles dipoles and dipoles
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2010, 09:02 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Thanks for asking Stig

Some, but not yet swinging yet: I'm doing some niceties (eg roundovers and some complexities with the woofer, which is conventional OB with little wings.

The complexity is the way I'm providing the fullranger with a littel platform from which to swing, and a way of being able to adjust its angle up and dowm

I should have taken a couple of pics. Next time I’m at the workshop, if things go well I hope to be able to "bring the baby home"

Then to start on the PC XO ..
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th July 2010, 03:55 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
otto88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Default skip the glue?

I had thought that the main benefit of decoupled mounting (originally by magnet mounting, now probably better on balance by mounting on a “swing”) was in the mid range.
Maybe because my first knowledge of dipoles was Linkwitz, and he decoupled the "mids" (120 - 1400 Hz), when I learnt of swing mounting, I focused on the mids.

And of course bass response is extended is by a baffle and wings, which increase D.

I'm now 80% through building my first OB speaker, with nice marine ply baffles (with large roundovers), wings & base cut. The next step would be to stain, then glue and screw it with the midwoofers (to run up to 350 Hz) in baffles . .

It just occurred to me:

Should I skip the glue, so I can pull it apart, or maybe better complete one ~ but skip the glue, and swing mount the other and compare?

Nb: the midwoofers weigh 11 kg each: 98 dB 15 inchers. I’d need some good strong rubber straps
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Beautiful Swingin' Speaker mige0 Multi-Way 120 28th September 2011 03:41 AM
NEARFest this weekend jackinnj Clubs & Events 0 27th April 2010 02:46 PM
Look what I found this weekend! eapavant Tubes / Valves 24 31st January 2006 05:19 PM
Keno was good to me this weekend! Cal Weldon Multi-Way 4 19th February 2004 04:39 AM
Gotheburg next weekend...who's comming? Magura Everything Else 10 7th January 2004 04:59 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:48 AM.

Page generated in 0.11654 seconds (71.71% PHP - 28.29% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio