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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Harvey Mudd College; Claremont, CA
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I'm trying to hook up a center speaker. However, I can't place it far enough away to prevent electron deflection. Does anyone know how magnetic shielding works, and if it is feasable to implement?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brantford, ON
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aluminum foil duct tape on the interior wall of the box
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Borås, Sweden, Tellus
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Hi
I dont think that aluminum foil will make any difference. This subject have been discussed several times before on this forum try doing a search. DVC Keld |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Two companies come to mind:
Magnetic Shield Corp: http://www.magnetic-shield.com/products/alloys.html and FMS http://www.fms-corp.com/emf-basics.shtml Both sell alloy products with I think contain a ferric and non-ferric (like nickel) component. As magnet flux crosses this alloy interaction between the molecules cancels much of the field density. Both sites have some good tutorials. It would also be worth googling for surplus Mu-metal (I think that its someone else’s brand name). Ideally you will find some that is self adhesive and can be applied like the aluminum tape that JD referred to. One more, duh: Mu Shield http://www.mushield.com/raw_materials.html |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Washington State, USA
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You can also attach cancellation magnets to the back of your drivers; I'm not sure how one finds the correct magnet to properly cancel the field of a given driver, but Parts Express sells a range of the magnets and I imagine there is information to be found on the web somewhere.
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#6 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
MuMetal will work to a somewhat lesser extent as will a big plate of some magnetic material (ie iron). Aluminum should have no effect. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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How are computer speakers shielded? don't they put a cap filled with rubber over the magnet? something like that might work.
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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You don't need expensive mu-metal, 12ga cold rolled steel (CRS) will do just fine for lining a cab and is cheap enough that sheetmetal fabricators will normally either give you scraps or just charge a nominal fee to shear it to size.
For that matter, you don't even need to line the cab with it. I used to have a 25" console with a sheet of it sitting on top, hanging off the back far enough to 'mask' the gun. This was sufficient to shield it from a 1.4T ceramic prosound 15" sitting on top. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Depending on how complex your center speaker is, I'd probably opt to just line the cabinet, as using bucking magnets can alter the properties of the drivers.
__________________
Bryan |
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