replacement tweeters musical fideleity mc4 speakers

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The evidence ! don't make a habit of wiring up the house lights with speaker cable, but guess its all I had to hand at the time lol
 

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MC4 rewired

Rewired the internal cabling today, used what I had laying around, gosh what a difference, its like the speakers have been put on steroids. The sound is so much more alive and dynamic. But put on AC-DC and the rythum guitar a bit in your face, hardly a relaxing listen lol

The cable I used is silver, perhaps not the best match for metal domed tweeters then...

The cable is HU1 from IPL:

IPL CABLES
 

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I never get it with cable changes. A couple of feet of super duper silver really oughtn't to make a difference. :confused:

Your average inductive coil has about 6 feet of copper in it. The voicecoils are pretty long too. Plus the speaker cables.

I think it's the fresh unoxidised contacts you might be hearing. :)

BTW, do twist the speaker pairs a little, otherwise you open them up to inductance.

I think you'd get more mileage out of a 7.5R + 0.68uF Zobel across the tweeter output to tame the top end. I love tweeter Zobels, they just so much clean up the top end. :cool:
 
All good fun, BarbieBoy. I've spent the last three days on my little ones. They're cute, IMO. 6" bass plus cone tweeter. :D

They sounded terrible. Harsh. I did about 6 builds. Finally got it. A 8.2R + 1uF Zobel across the tweeter was what they needed. Now they have pace and rythym and a laid back feel. :cool:
 

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Has anyone got any info / specs on these speakers,
old reviews, brochure ? All I know is that they are 8ohms !

Hi,

Rave reviews at the time for the quality, but at the price
the vinyl finish was a major downer, they didn't sell well.

The TPX bassmid I think suffered from the lack of
extremely consistent supply and needed to be
precise way beyond its other typical uses.

(Which is laboratory stuff and stiff wine / beer glasses.)

Peerless experimented with a TPX/Poly combination.

rgds, sreten.

FWIW the original MC2's and MC4's were designed
by Martin Colloms, and both with the loads of foam
stuffing, indicate drivers out of the original spec.

Both were replaced by inferior designs very shortly.
Driver consistency I suspect was the major issue.

Still I like my MC2's a lot.
 
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When designing crossovers, I'd never worry about getting nearer than 10% even with a notch. That's why you go for the nearest preferred value. Resonant frequency of an LC circuit is the root of 1/LC.

So 10% change in value produces a 5% change in frequency. I don't suppose film types vary much.

Preferred values are stuff like 2.2uF, 2.7uF, 3.3uF, 3.9uF, 4.7Uf, 5.6uf, 6.8uf, 8.2uF, 10uF, 12uF, 15uF, 18uF, 22uF. Falcon and Wilmslow have that.

I wouldn't have use for anything closer. Same for coils and resistors. With resistors, I just get biggish 10W wirewound types because they work for everything.

A rougher range like Maplin's, frequently stocked is 2.2uF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF, 6.8uF, 10uF, 15uF, 22uF. That can be problematic.

Occasionally you encounter 10uF, 12uF, 16uF, 20uF and so on.

The price hikes with 250V, 400V, 630V and 1000V. But curiously, I find smaller cheaper 250V types have some advantages with build size and a theoretical smaller common-mode crosstalk and interference, and are my current weapon of choice. :)
 
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But the inside of the cabinets are veneered,

Hi,.

Well they won't be the mk1 versions of the MC2's or MC4's.
Your right in that veneered cabs have an internal veneer.
(Most veneered cabinets use balanced stock at the time.)

rgds, sreten.

the mk2 versions of the MC2 and MC4 are very different
speakers, and nowhere near as good IMHO, YMMV.
 
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