I replaced the caps in a friend's new pair of Epos speakers with the cheapest ClarityCaps SA and we were both blown away by the difference. But the cost of doing so with MC4s is much greater due to the number of caps needed. Only one 2.0u in each of the Epos.
The MC4s image so well, almost etched into the air. Just been moving them back inch by inch, after only three inches the bass was there but introduced boom into male speech, yuk, so back out they came and wonderful, that's where they belong.
Ahh you have some EQ, explains things rather. I can only do that within the PC, but degrades sadly, like digital volume controls do
I am definitively sticking with these MC4s, and I will invest to get them tip top. Have just ordered some decent 500mm stands which should be here soon.
The MC4s image so well, almost etched into the air. Just been moving them back inch by inch, after only three inches the bass was there but introduced boom into male speech, yuk, so back out they came and wonderful, that's where they belong.
Ahh you have some EQ, explains things rather. I can only do that within the PC, but degrades sadly, like digital volume controls do
I am definitively sticking with these MC4s, and I will invest to get them tip top. Have just ordered some decent 500mm stands which should be here soon.
I agree that different poly capacitors sound different, just not convinced they sound better.
There is a theory of cabinet construction dating from BBC days, that you stick rubbery or bituminous stuff to the top, bottom and sides. That absorbs cabinet energy, but not sound. For that you use wadding and felt lining.
I think it works. I only used a bit on the back to rest the crossover on. This is acoustic floor underlay material made from old tyres and cork called Regupol. You stick it with aerosol Carpet adhesive.
People always ask about bracing, but it can produce more problems than it solves. Just little bits of battening, even 2" strips of square dowel, on the joins never go wrong though. Old cabinets and glue can get weak and battered with age and it helps.
There is a theory of cabinet construction dating from BBC days, that you stick rubbery or bituminous stuff to the top, bottom and sides. That absorbs cabinet energy, but not sound. For that you use wadding and felt lining.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think it works. I only used a bit on the back to rest the crossover on. This is acoustic floor underlay material made from old tyres and cork called Regupol. You stick it with aerosol Carpet adhesive.
People always ask about bracing, but it can produce more problems than it solves. Just little bits of battening, even 2" strips of square dowel, on the joins never go wrong though. Old cabinets and glue can get weak and battered with age and it helps.
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Hi,
Call me a stand fascist *, but they are too small for the speakers.
Compared to my Linn Sara stands for the MC2's. A little too tall.
These would be ideal :
Claimed to be Sara stands, but they aren't, not as tall.
(In all other respects they are the same stand.)
Same (taller) stand also used for the Epos ES14.
rgds, sreten.
* Sort of thing I simply couldn't live with, YMMV.
Call me a stand fascist *, but they are too small for the speakers.
Compared to my Linn Sara stands for the MC2's. A little too tall.
These would be ideal :
Claimed to be Sara stands, but they aren't, not as tall.
(In all other respects they are the same stand.)
Same (taller) stand also used for the Epos ES14.
rgds, sreten.
* Sort of thing I simply couldn't live with, YMMV.
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OMG, my idea of a speaker stand is looking a bit RUBBISH!
I can never honestly decide if you couple the speakers to the floor with spikes or isolate them with rubber feet.
But my speakers sound so lovely, IMO, it doesn't much matter...
BTW, anybody thought about floating the electronics on a cushion of air an all that stuff? Something to do with acoustic isolation. My friend does that.
I can never honestly decide if you couple the speakers to the floor with spikes or isolate them with rubber feet.
But my speakers sound so lovely, IMO, it doesn't much matter...
BTW, anybody thought about floating the electronics on a cushion of air an all that stuff? Something to do with acoustic isolation. My friend does that.
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That's what I have
The MC4 cabinets are still on them. All that is left these days, and kept because I'm no good at cabinet making.
The front has been replaced and now has my SEAS L22/Morel EM1308/SEAS 22TAFG in there. 'Huge improvement' doesn't quite do it justice...
I was shocked when I unpacked these stands and saw how slim they were, silly me only looked at the height measurement....
Thanks for pointing out the Heybrook stands, yes they would be better. Leaves me with the choice of either looking out for a pair of those or making top and bottom plates and spreading out the legs of the ones I have just received.. ?
No worries, point taken
Just been looking at the price of metal to make my own very substantial stands with 40mm columns and 10mm bottom plates would come to about £160 in materials alone. But they would weigh an absolute ton
or I could just get two bottom plates and dismantle the crap old Target stands (on the right) and use the bottom plates from those as top plates and use the legs from the new stands, that being the most straight forward way at the moment
But my speakers sound so lovely, IMO, it doesn't much matter...
Hi,
In your case it would matter a lot. Nothing is going to sound
great stood on a cabinet like that. Not awful, but not great.
Speakers are too near the rear wall to sound great too.
rgds, sreten.
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Stands were demonstrated to me by Moorgate Acoustics (when they were still in Rotherham) when I bought the MC4's from them. Differences were clearly audible and the Heybrooks had the most solid sound stage.
As for standing speakers on cabinets. Please tell me this was intended as a joke.
One thing speakers need is a solid foundation. Any kind of 'give' in the stand will at best muddle the bass, and most cases rob the speaker of detail and imaging.
As for standing speakers on cabinets. Please tell me this was intended as a joke.
One thing speakers need is a solid foundation. Any kind of 'give' in the stand will at best muddle the bass, and most cases rob the speaker of detail and imaging.
A lot of mass isn't always the best solution. For whatever mechanical or acoustic (or psychoacoustic) reasons, lighter open frame stands like the Heybrooks and the Sara's may work better. To complicate things further, genuine decoupling (as opposed to 'decoupling' with spikes, which is actually coupling), does seem to work too. Townshend's rather expensive stands and feet appear to work well and DIY versions can be made. Depends how much time, money and patience you have to experiment, or if you know other enthusiasts who can demo some of the options. In terms of cost, appearance and sound quality the Heybrook stands are a good option. I heard this combination when I had MC-4s demoed years ago.
I had MC4s when they first came out, but all that mattered back then was the more bass the better until I floated in the stuff... I have grown up a bit since then lol.
Anyway now I am back with the MC4s at long last thanks to ebay last month. They came with their own stands which are useless at 14" high.
Anyway now I am back with the MC4s at long last thanks to ebay last month. They came with their own stands which are useless at 14" high.
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