my first diy, any advise?

[diypwj]

hi guys,
this is the idea of my first diy borned after diving several months here . i need your feeling of this idea and if any suggestion. it follows Tannoy Turnberry SE's appearance, i like it.

here is the genaral information;
hight, 950mm
deepth, 350mm
width, 450mm
tweeter, scan 93000
mid, seas h1262 (5")
woofer, seas h1316 (10")

thanks,

[picowallspeaker]

If you like it ,go for it ! Classic design is never boring .
You forgot to mention filter's characteristics : How ,when ,where ..!Are you going to "cut" the bass at around 300 Hz ? And the midrange at 3000 Hz? The crossover is the heart of the system.

[diypwj]

Originally Posted by picowallspeaker

If you like it ,go for it ! Classic design is never boring .
You forgot to mention filter's characteristics : How ,when ,where ..!Are you going to "cut" the bass at around 300 Hz ? And the midrange at 3000 Hz? The crossover is the heart of the system.

well, the similar thing is only the appearance...totally different internal structure, different units, etc.
i wrote the units PN (espercially the woofer) and the details of inverted image tube, since i want to recieve any advise of the speaker internal size/structure, and any good experience of tube design.
about the crossover i cut the base at 500Hz and midrange at 2600Hz. i haven't finished the circuit design so that's all.
about the space at the bottom inside, i plan to fill it with sand, to achive better stability and to adjust the internal space size (from ~75L to ~65L)

thanks

[picowallspeaker]

Hi ! yes ,the tall cabinet made me wondering ,too . Not knowing the size of the duct (diameter and length),but talking about it...You could do it with wood ,3 pieces of ,say, 7 X 20 cm attached together and to the rear wall of the cabinet.
Then you shape the 90° curve with many 7 X2 cm to get a smooth transition ,and the final touch would be to FLARE the mouth ...well ,also the beginning of the reflex duct should be flared .

[diypwj]

Originally Posted by picowallspeaker

Hi ! yes ,the tall cabinet made me wondering ,too . Not knowing the size of the duct (diameter and length),but talking about it...You could do it with wood ,3 pieces of ,say, 7 X 20 cm attached together and to the rear wall of the cabinet.
Then you shape the 90° curve with many 7 X2 cm to get a smooth transition ,and the final touch would be to FLARE the mouth ...well ,also the beginning of the reflex duct should be flared .

good idea!
something like what shows in below picture, right?

[picowallspeaker]

Yes. I was meaning to make the duct square,using the rear panel of the cabinet as a side of the duct . A fold means losses ,it depends if and how the 10" speaker allows it.

[diypwj]

err...this could be the structure you are talking.
i'm not sure if it works, i haven't seen suchduct before. is it good? how to caculate its length and size?

[picowallspeaker]

yes ,you got it . Don't know if flaring is really a necessity ,since it may be a complication in construction , it is just to minimize air velocity in the vicinity of the entrance and exit of the duct . Which duct ,can be compared to a tube having its own length and section area.
I think it will have a square hole of 10x10 cm , maybe less ...