Check out the two pairs of speakers I've just finished.
The current crossover is a bare minimum 2nd order filter with no impedence compensation or attenuation networks (only a cap and coil on each driver). The filters for both speakers are between 2700-3200.
Do you have any suggestions for tweaking these crossovers? Are there any testing procedures or inexpensive test equipment that could help me in optimizing the x-overs?
Initially, I am very pleased with these speakers. The short boxes have vifa dual concentric dome tweeter and p22 woofer from apexjr. The MTMs have the audax F1 tweeter and the Stryke SA071 woofer.
The bass is very impressive out of the vifa pair and the tweeters are absolutely amazing compared to what I've been exposed to in the past. Even with the minimal x-over, they show up my roommate's $1000 Boston's.
The bass isn't as good from the Stryke woofer, but has been improving with time. And the audax tweeter seems to blend really well.
Let me know what you think,
Austin
The current crossover is a bare minimum 2nd order filter with no impedence compensation or attenuation networks (only a cap and coil on each driver). The filters for both speakers are between 2700-3200.
Do you have any suggestions for tweaking these crossovers? Are there any testing procedures or inexpensive test equipment that could help me in optimizing the x-overs?
Initially, I am very pleased with these speakers. The short boxes have vifa dual concentric dome tweeter and p22 woofer from apexjr. The MTMs have the audax F1 tweeter and the Stryke SA071 woofer.
The bass is very impressive out of the vifa pair and the tweeters are absolutely amazing compared to what I've been exposed to in the past. Even with the minimal x-over, they show up my roommate's $1000 Boston's.
The bass isn't as good from the Stryke woofer, but has been improving with time. And the audax tweeter seems to blend really well.
Let me know what you think,
Austin
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they look good to me.....I would run them awhile and let them break in and then tweak the cossovers....only thing I worry about is that the port being so close to the tweeter.... because I cant see what you have done internally (port length etc)...but obviously its not a problem if you dont hear resonance......anyways good Job on the project and let us know about any improvements
DIRT®
DIRT®
The port is next to the tweeter because I accidentally cut the tweeter holes on the same side to begin with, giving me two left speakers. The port in that position proved to be the easiest fix, although probably not the best acoustically.
Some minor mishaps that I learned from were the use of T-Nuts. They worked great when I made my sub, but were not needed for these drivers. I should have gone with regular pan head wood screws. Much less hassle.
Also, on the first speaker i hammered the binding posts into, I didn't line up the holes for bare speaker wire vertically. I plan on using banannas anyways, but it was awkward when I first tried to hook up the bare speaker wire. How embarassing!
One more thing: I read somewhere that in x-over orders 2nd and higher, the tweeter should be wired out of phase with the woofer. I tried both ways to see the difference. The hole in the midrange was apparent for the woofer and tweeter wired out of phase, but seemed correct for in phase wiring. Could it change as I add more components and tweak the crossovers?
Some minor mishaps that I learned from were the use of T-Nuts. They worked great when I made my sub, but were not needed for these drivers. I should have gone with regular pan head wood screws. Much less hassle.
Also, on the first speaker i hammered the binding posts into, I didn't line up the holes for bare speaker wire vertically. I plan on using banannas anyways, but it was awkward when I first tried to hook up the bare speaker wire. How embarassing!
One more thing: I read somewhere that in x-over orders 2nd and higher, the tweeter should be wired out of phase with the woofer. I tried both ways to see the difference. The hole in the midrange was apparent for the woofer and tweeter wired out of phase, but seemed correct for in phase wiring. Could it change as I add more components and tweak the crossovers?
I'm about to play with speakerworkshop from audua (free).
You need a (preferably) pre-amp'd mic and an impedance jig. Then I believe you are 80% of the way there....
Apparently, the Speaker Workshop site has a full tutorial about building, measuring and tweaking a ported speaker and sub. I suggest you have a look at:
http://www.speakerworkshop.com/SW/Project/Main.htm
Cheers,
Dave.
You need a (preferably) pre-amp'd mic and an impedance jig. Then I believe you are 80% of the way there....
Apparently, the Speaker Workshop site has a full tutorial about building, measuring and tweaking a ported speaker and sub. I suggest you have a look at:
http://www.speakerworkshop.com/SW/Project/Main.htm
Cheers,
Dave.
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